Panama 07-08 Part 1
Thursday, November 29, 2007
This was our second evening in Panama. We went to a buffet at the new, old landmark in Gorgona called La Ruina, the ruins. It is a very old and storied building that has been renovated by an ex-serviceman and his Panamanian wife: Frank and Delcia. They have done an excellent job. The place has a lot of character and is becoming well known. On the weekends a musician comes and plays. They don’t hire him. He just likes to play.
La Ruina is about two blocks from the house we are renting, both of which are near the famous Gorgona fish market where the restaurants come for their fish.
Last evening we went to the monthly expat gathering at Rincon del Chef. It was also a nice gathering, though much larger, probably a hundred people.
At both gatherings we met very interesting people. One couple drove down to Panama from Cincinatti. We met several Canadians. There was a swiss couple. We even met a native born Panamanian ! Several people have retired from the military or canal support services. Some lived in Gorgona only on weekends until they retired, as the owners of the house we are renting.
One man was beginning an import business in artificial thatched roofs. Others are building spec houses. There are many economic opportunities here. One can own a business, but they want Panamanians to do the work, so you better have some workers on your payroll.
We came down one day early for the expat dinner. We had hopes of making some contacts for appliance purchases, tips on getting around, architects and other services we will need. Everyone was more than willing to share their experiences with us. Without exception, they all had interesting stories and a very positive outlook on Panama.
Our first evening, after we landed, we went for a walk. Our Aparthotel is in the heart of PC in a very busy area, which includes a large Casino. There are many resaurants nearby. We stopped at a gelato parlor we had found last year and had some good gelato. The best we’ve had is to be found in Vienna, near the Opera House. After having our desert first, we went to a vegetarian restaurant run by a Chinese family. The Chinese have been in Panama since the 1860’s when the initial efforts for a canal were begun by the French. I shared my Spanish version of my no gluten statement, and the host was very helpful. I could eat most things. I buought a plate of 6 different items and furit juice (maracuya) for $2.75. Quite the healthy bargain.
Yesterday morning we had breakfast at Manolos, near the hotel. Always good. Then we repacked and drove out. We still haven’t been able to get over the old Bridge of the America’s, but the new bridge works just fine, and we get to drive by the locks.
Our non-moving, non-eating and non-sleeping moments have been spent checking email and working with our bank and lawyer to try to complete the purchase of our villa. I has been a several month process, with many delays for un-understandable reasons, but everyone is always very pleasant. Even if you just had a disappointing conversation with someone 5 minutes ago, the first sentenced in the new conversation is something like “Buenos Dios. Como esta?” “Muy bien. Gracias. Y usted.” etc We are usually assured that things are moving along, and not to worry. (it won’t do any good, anyway. Things have their own pace here. Pushing does not do much good. Showing up does definitely help. I think this is a very healthy change for gringos. We meet or hear about many gringos who have left high stress jobs in New York, of the good life here. They are still self starters, with big dreams, but the pace is much more enjoyable.)
Our house we are renting while we await the completion of our villa does not have internet, though this is available, at least in nearby San Carlos. We drive to San Carlos to the Mail Boxes Etc. It has a new owner since we were last here. The previous owner developed a cancer condition and went home to Montreal to recover. It is in the shopping center with the El Rey 24 hour grocery store that has almost anything one could need. No rice crackers, but plenty of rice. I bought a several day supply of basic food last night and was surprised at the low cost of $67. One can pay with credit or cash, though bills larger than 20’s require a manager’s approval. A lot of counterfeit activity, apparently.
One of our conversations this evening was with a woman who finds Altos too slow. Rachel, who is a few years older than we are, goes into PC 3 or 4 times each week. Like me, she is a public transportation fan. There is a bus along every few minutes, and for $2 you can get to the Allbrook mall, where you can grab a $2 taxi to anywhere in PC. Our few minutes of driving in PC after picking up the rental car have convinced us anew that we don’t want to drive in PC unless we have to. Driving in any foreign city is incredibly stressful. Why do it, when for less money, someone else will take you where you want to go?
I think we have found a place to watch the Mizzou-Oklahoma football game on Saturday. The owner of Mary’s restaurant is from Rolla, and I was inquiring after his phone number to see if he was going to carry the game, and came across another serious football fan who will have it in his home. His name is Elier, and he has been doing some construction inspection work for us on our vila.
Things here in Panama are much as we remembered them. We want to see if we can handle being away from children and grandchildren for this extended period. We miss them already, but know they are growing well, and will enjoy us when we see them again. Stacia and her family (husband Lonnie and two children Clay and Lilly) will be coming down in January. Sarah and her family (husband Paul and three boys: Ty, Mason, and Maverick) will join us in February. As I see the myriad differences I think about how the grandchildren will react to them.
The experience of the differences is what makes travel exciting. It is not the great sights, but the thinking and the culture that created those sites and the small daily experiences, that causes us to see the world in new ways. This is when I fee most alive. This is especially so since a major motivation for me is to get away from the dark of the Seattle winters. Here I have light and experiences that cause me to feel alive, younger, and excited. Seeing this in me is major joy for Jayne.
You may know that we travel fairly simply, avoiding four star experiences because we are cheap, and have had to struggle for what we have, and because those stars separate one from the true travel experience. We are too old to back pack and hostel our way, but we try to keep it real.
It is late. I’ll try to attach some suitable photos. More later.
Sunday Night, December 2, 2007
I should state clearly that just because you are receiving this, you do not need to read every word. I write this primarily for myself. The recording and expression helps me to understand my experience and appreciate its uniqueness. I do want to share my excitement with anyone who will listen, but I’m really talking to myself.
This is a first draft, with almost no correction. I believe firmly that “anything worth doing is worth doing poorly!” Most people fail to even start their great projects, often because they want them to be perfect.
It is actually about three AM. I have awakened because of the pain in my shoulder. I had rotator cuff surgery just over two weeks ago. It is healing well, and I am faithfully doing my rehab exercises, which accounts for the pain.
It may be a little difficult to get back to sleep. A few of the neighborhood guard dogs have begun to bark non-stop. I should get some earplugs. I normally travel with them, but can’t locate them now. I remember my first night time dog experience in 1991 in Cuernevaca, Mexico. We were staying with friends. There was a pack of dogs that circled the neighborhood, baying as they went, all night long! It was quite a racket. In this climate there are either no windows, or they are open almost all the time, especially at night, so the noise is very present.
Dogs and fences and bars and locks are a necessary fact of life. We feel safe wherever we go, and we do walk in the neighborhoods after dark, but there is such a disparity between the haves and the have nots that theft is inevitable. Even with this disparity, I think there is a feeling of rising prosperity for everyone in Panama. The Gringo is not disparaged because we have money. I think it is understood that the flow of this money benefits everyone.
Speaking of noise, last night was Sabado, Saturday. Workers are generally paid every two weeks, so the cantina has a fiesta to help them spend their money. The local cantina is just few blocks from here. The advent of powerful woofers makes for a powerful thumping. The earplugs would solve this easily.
Next to the cantina is a large futbol (soccer) field. There were games there today for all ages, going continuously, even during the heat, and, I’m not sure, but possibly during the deluge. We see the players walking home, and they look like I looked after a day of playing Rugby in St. Louis. There is no feeling quite like it, and I am happy for them. I am anticipating our grandkids seeing the local kids play soccer, and even possibly kicking the ball around with them. There shouldn’t be any language barrier with a soccer ball.
We have been to our nearly completed villa three times, and have met two of our neighboring owners. Our conversation with them and others involves discussions of where to buy appliances. There are many choices, and everyone has an opinion.
As with any construction there are items that need to be corrected. We have experienced the same thing in the US, though there is definitely a Panamanian flavor to the way construction is done. They tend to do something and then go back and fix it. For instance wiring is put into a channel that is carved into the wall, often after the stucco has been applied, thus necessitating skillful repair work. All the construction is cinder block and concrete. Prices for these items are already going up, and that part of the work on the new canal has not even begun.
Today we stayed in the neighborhood. I took a morning walk down to the local fish cooperative. It was beginning to get warm about 10:00 and the work was done for the day. A few trucks were still loaded and waiting to transport their fish cargo. The coop has a contract for export, so that is where the first fish go. Additional fish is sold to restaurants and individuals.
I walked on the beach to where I could see our villa complex, and decided to avoid the heat by heading up to the villas. I examined our project and met Mota. He was originally from Israel, and most recently from Miami. He had gone to the UW at one point. He owns three units and some land in Altos, so we discussed real estate investing in Panama. He has management software product that produces his money for investments. His villa is or weekend use. He lives in PC, or Panama as it is called.
We stopped in to see the owner of a small motel where we stayed when we first came t Panama. Anna is the owner. She is quite the entrepreneur. She has a cleaning products manufacturing business called ProLido. It is out by the highway. She distributes her products all over Panama through grocery stores etc. She and her husband live in Casco Viejo, or the old city. She was quite happy to see us and made us promise to call her when we are finished with our residential visa work on Tuesday. She taught me to say “Estoy contiendo de vello de Nuevo.” I am happy to see you again. She wants to learn more English and help us learn more Spanish.
We made an afternoon stop at the villas. We met a mother and daughter, both named Sanya. The daughter and her fiancé from Canada (whom she met while they were both students at Arizona State) have each bought a villa. One is next to ours, the other across the walkway. They plan to rent them out for about $1500 per month and have renters already. This is good news for us, as we will be renting ours out also, when we are not here. The father/husband has a handyman business, and they promised to give us a good price. We are also discussing creating a group to get a good cable TV deal.
Saturday night we watched the Mizzou-Oklahoma game in Altos del Maria. A man we have been using for some construction oversight, Elier, invited us for the game. He has a cable service out of Puerto Rico which, though it may be technically illegal, had all the major US channels, as well as many Spanish channels. He is an engineer who came to the US when he was 17.
The game did not start until 8:00, so we felt we had to start down the mountain at half time. We will always remember the terrific 2 point conversion Mizzou made, and did not have to suffer through their frustration in the second half. I had to call Elier in the morning to get the score and the details. There is no local English newspaper on the weekends, and I haven’t seen a USA Today since the airport. I don’t miss it, though I would still pick up my Sunday New York Times if I had a chance.
While we were up in Altos we visited our lot. We still love it. The view is terrific. The weather great. Our plan is to build a small casita, similar to one we stayed at when we first visited. We will live in that while we design and build our house and pool. We have really learned that you need to be here to supervise construction, if you want it done right.
We had a pleasant conversation about such issues with Andy and Sue, Montrealers who stayed in the cabin next door when we first visted, and who just completed their first winter stay in their new house. Their lot is separated from ours by one vacant lot and a Melo spec house, so their conditions are very similar to ours. We like what they have created, and will probably do something very similar. They have a master suite, and one guest bedroom and bath. The rest of the space is very open, with a living area and kitchen that look out onto the Picachu view, and is connected to an office which they share. They each have a lap top. The ceilings are very high, with several powerful fans. They do have three split a/c units which they ran during the rainy season. Elier had managed to create enough circulation that he did not need to have a/c. I’d like to do that if possible. Even on warm nights, we turn off our a/c after cooing off the bedroom.
We sat on Andy and Sue’s porch and discussed their experience with their big move for a few hours. They are missing their family, but are getting them to visit, and have plans to surprise them with a birthday drop in. They have no regrets with making the year round move and are very happy.
Andy and Sue have some very nice built in wood furniture. The closets have crossed slats to allow for air circulation. They have a bed with storage drawers, much like we had made in Seattle, and like Sanya and her fiancé had made. The price here seems to be about 1/6. There are many possibilities for excellent woodworking furniture.
We have eaten at some of our old favorite restaurants, like Don Chaco’s where we get a whole chicken for $6 and some fruit Batidos and steamed vegetables. We discovered a Chinese restaurant called Las Palmas in Gorgona.
My shoulder pain has subsided and the dogs are taking a break, probably so the roosters can begin crowing without interference. I’m going back to bed.
Tuesday Night, December 4, 2007
Two busy days have passed, mostly devoted to business, but we had fun.
Yesterday was our last day to name an exchange property for our property we sold in Gulfport. I spent most of the day on line trying to find an acceptable back up property. I have a contract on some property in Cashmere, but like everything, there are some issues to be solved, so I needed to have another project in case Cashmere does not come together. I think I found one.
We took breaks during the day to shop and to go to lunch. We met another expat Canadian couple: Clifford and Debbie. Clifford first discovered Panama when he ran away from home at the age of 13. He as spent most of his time since in Bristish Columbia as an undertaker. He is quite a character.
Every day we meet a few interesting couples who live in the area. Some we exchange email and phone numbers with. Others we just count on running into them again.
Threre is another expat function of some kind tomorrow morning. This one for the Playa (beach) community.
We arose quite early this morning for a drive to Panama (city). On our way to our attorney’s office we managed to get quite lost. Our plan was to drive in over the Balboa bridge, but we ended up coming in over the Avenue of the Americas bridge, and could not find our way to the Aldbrook mall. We eventually go to a Reys grocery store in the area of the mall, and took a cab for $2 to Carlos’s office.
We had scheduled the day to appear for our Pensionado visa. We spent a few hours at Migration and got everything done. We were number 70 in line, when the counter read 20, but we had a meeting before the counter reached 24. Certain persons get in line early and money is exchanged. Beyond that I don’t know how it works. We had spent much time getting all our documents in order. This included having our original wedding certificate apostilled by the state of Oklahoma. This was a new process for me. Also, we had driven to Olympia in November to have the state apostile our lack of criminal records. We had multiple passport type photos taken at Costco, with suitable coat and tie!
There were hundreds of people in various lines. People want to come to Panama. Immigration has slowed a bit from the US (probably because of the real estate issues), but has picked up from Canada and Venezuela. Everyone is breathing a sigh of relief over the failure of the Chavez initiative.
We also met with the attorney and a representative of Altos to take another step toward finalizing our lot purchase. We are getting there, but things do take time.
We had lunch at the Vegetarian restaurant we found on our first evening I Panama. Then we had Gelato.
We took a cab back to our car, and followed the driver to Aldbrook mall. It is quite something. We did not see many Americans, but were amazed at the high prices, which, presumably, Panamanians can afford. One can see a movie there for $4 or less. Beowulf is playing.
I bought a sony version of an MP3 player to download music and talk to listen to in the evening. Our TV fair is almost all Spanish, and one needs a rest sometimes. We are near the beach and have almost no FM radio reception. We plan on catching our favorite NPR shows and possibly a course or two.
We had a simple dinner and headed back. This was not easy, but we got directions on cutting through the Clayton neighborhood from a Panamanian MP type in military dress. This was the area the generals and majors used to live in. It is very nice. Driving back, the curves seem sharper in the dark, says Jayne. She is doing all the driving while my shoulder continues to heal.
We stopped for gas and paid $3.36 for 91 octane.
I’ll send this off with photos.
Comments and/or questions are welcome.
John
Thursday Evening, December 6
On Wednedsay we slept in, exhausted from our long day in Panama. I explored the beach to the right (is it West) of the point near the fish coop. It has much bigger waves, and a fish restaurant at the far end of the beach, just before the river separating Gorgona from Coronado. Just next to the restaurant is a very nice home which a couple we met last week has lived in for 20 years. They seem young to have been there that long, but I guess they got lucky early.
After a quick breakfast we went to a gathering of the beach community, mostly from the Coronado area. They had a presentation by to representative of two Kiwanis clubs in Panama. They wanted this Playa group to become a Kiwanis club because it is already going a great deal to help children in the area. A group of Mah Jong players within the group have given over a thousand dollars to buy uniforms for children. Without a uniform a child cannot go to school. Other members of the group support a local orphanage, which houses many children who’s parents simply cannot support them. Others support efforts to enable these parents to cope and take back their children. The group voted to not join Kiwanis at this time because they do not want any of their money going to any administrative overhead.
After the meeting we spent most of the afternoon on the computer working on requirements back in the states.
We at a late lunch of Corvina and Plantenoes (fired plantains) at the restaurant next to the river separating Gorgona from Coronado. We then met our landlords back at our house to let the repairmen in to fix the gas stove (it was too high) and install two ceiling fans on the first floor. This makes the entire house very comfortable, and we will probably rent the house through February. Our villa will be available for our daughters’ families and friends who come to visit. The legal work on the villa has stretched out for months, but I think we may be home. If so, we will only have the punch list completion before we take possession. Then we will install appliances and furnish the villa. We hope to have this done before Stacia and family come to visit in Mid January.
This morning (Thursday, 12/06) we went for a walk along the same beach, and stopped for a swim. I think the swim really helped my shoulder. I’m not really swimming, just sculling, or pulling with my left hand only. We walked back along the road.
I think the grandkids will find this beach to their liking. It is near the house and villa and has good waves.
We spent the day doing laundry before heading out for dinner at El Rincon del Chef, a very nice restaurant, with an English speaking Chef who has been very helpful with my wheat/gluten allergy. It is generally not a problem here. This is a corn country. The wheat sneaks in via packaged goods, like cereals an pastas.
A couple we had met joined us at our table. We were both heading to the game night for the Playa community. It was a fun evening. We are not much on games, except perhaps scrabble, but it was a lively social evening. Jayne did join in for a rousing group contest of darts. There were several Britishers in the group.
End of Dispatch 3
Saturday Night, December 8
Today is Panama’s Mother’s Day, so there is extra activity and lots of parties. We called home and wished our daughters happy mother’s day! I’ll have to call my Mom tomorrow.
These past few days have been idyllic and I hope will be the pattern for our future days here.
We arose around 7:15, walked to the beach, took a nice swim, walked home, stopping yesterday to buy some red snapper (two pounds for $3) and then for coffee and a visit with some neighbors. When we arrived home, I fixed a breakfast of snapper, tortillas and mermalada, and blended juice with fresh mango and banana.
After breakfast we headed for the Mailboxes etc. to get on the internet. We did some business, made some phone calls over skype to Seattle, and downloaded some tunes (go to jimmyr.com/mp3.php) which I am listening to now.
Yesterday we drove to Las Palmas to explore and have dinner. It is a small fishing village. We had pleasant dinner. They even presented our ¼ bottle of wine for our taste approval, and put it on ice! The waves there are suitable for surfing, and we saw surfers returning home.
Tonight we shopped for needed supplies at Reys and then walked a few blocks to La Ruina, where we ran into some local couples we had met last week. One woman had traveled to Panama when she first graduated high school. Currently she is housesitting, while taking a break from sailing a catamaran from Belize to Cartagena. She had been living in Belize, but may move to Panama. The others had their own adventurous stories. Our meal two limondas, a wine for me, barbeque chicken and sides cost $11.45 plus $1.45 tip. Dave had skate, which is sting ray. We joked that it was necessary because he was stung by one about a week ago.
Earlier today also looked for the best exit to Punta Chame, a close, but isolated point with great potential for beaches and development.
Another fabulous two days in “paraiso!”
I think I’ll attach some photos of our dinner at bayview and the fishing boats there.
End of Dispatch four
Thursday Evening, Dec.13
It has been a wonderful week in Panama. We are settling into a bit of a rhythm while trying to take care of things with deadlines. These include real estate projects at home and trying to close on our beach view villa here.
The morning starts with a stroll to the beach for an hour swim, a possible stop by the fish coop to purchase breakfast, a possible stop by a neighbors for coffee, the preparation of breakfast, the leisurely enjoyment of breakfast, and the cleaning of the dishes. Small food seeking bugs will find any drop of juice you leave on the counter.
We still spend a good deal of time on the internet, for which we have to go to the nearest shopping center and the Mail Boxes Etc. franchise. In addition to the regular business emails, I have been downloading songs for my MP3 player. I’m told this is free and legal, perhaps because most of the selection is either old, or very old, that is the songs I grew up with or the classics written long before I was around. This allows us to fill our space with some wonderful music.
We are woefully out of date on US current affairs. What is up with Britney these days? We don’t know who is leading in the various presidential poles. We get reports on Seattle’s weather whenever we mention we are from Seattle.
We continue to meet some very interesting people, mostly form Canada or the US, but also from Britain, Switzerland and Panama, of course. We talk about our experiences, how long we have been here. Our latest inquiry is for a good furniture builder. Our villa has very little storage, so we need to build storage into the furniture. To avoid mildew when we are not using the vila, we need to keep the storage spaces open and ventilated. Our first purchase will probably be a Queen size bed (no room for a King), a platform with two rows of shelves below for baskets.
We went up to Alto del Maria twice this week. Once was for a jewelry show hosted by a friend who owns a B&B. While we were there it rained harder than I have ever experienced for well over an hour. We went to look at our lot afterward, but did not see any serious runoff anywhere.
This evening we went to a social for expats from Altos. We met a few new people and talked about where to find the best furniture makers, and whether we should build in wood or metal. Houses built of wood in Panama fall down after a few years, mostly from the insects, such as carpenter ants and termites. Many people make much of their furniture in metal. We had not considered that, but it may make sense.
We had the walk through for our Villa today. We had our engineere from Cuba with us. He was very helpful with the engineering type issues, and also the language. The contractor spoke about as much English as we do Spanish. We are working on it, but it is one thing to order food off a Spanish menu and another to discuss whether a window opens properly. We could have done it, but it would have taken all day. A week from now, the punch list is supposed to be completed, except for a French drain to cure a water problem in the back yard. We bought a split A/C unit and a fan for the living room. For appliances, we need four more fans, two more A/C splits, a refrigerator, and counter top burners. No Stove. Far too hot to use a stove! Electricity is very expensive.
We added some time to our cell phone today. Everyone has a cell phone here too.
We bought our phone for $28. One purchases cards to enter pin numbers for time. If you buy on certain days you get from two to four times the face amount as a credit. Calls incoming or outgoing are charged at 10 cents per minute with a four minute minimum. Our first $5 card gave us a $20 credit and has lasted these two weeks.
All of our calls back home are done through skype, which I may have mentioned. You can call anywhere in the world for less than 2.5 cents per minute, and free if you call another computer with the skype program downloaded. Go to skype.com.
I have heard from a few intrepid greyhounds who want to exchange their travel adventures! Join in. Sharing the stories of travel and cultural exploration may not be a good as the real thing, but it is good!
It bums me out that it took me so much of my life to find out what adventure travel can be. Many of you found out much earlier. Some moved to strange lands. Congratulations. I’ve had some business adventures and moved across the country to Seattle, basically for the weather, but how much did I miss? If I had it to do again, I would have combined my business ventures with foreign adventure, and I would be fluent in several languages. It is not too late. I intend to fill every moment that remains with as much foreign adventure as I can manage. This life is not a rehearsal!
Pitures of our breakfast of Langastinos, an Iguana in the road, the rear view of our villa from the 8th floor of condo being built nearby.
End of Dispatch 5
Monday Evening December 17
Since I wrote last, we have made two trips in to the outskirts of Panama, near the Mira Flores locks. We dropped off our first car and picked up a new one at the Albrook Airport, a small airport that serves mostly intra country flights. We had to return in an attempt to get the right car. We have arranged to get this done in Coronodo, where we check our email and shop.
On our first trip in we got lost and went over the Bridge of the Americas, after which one has no idea how to get anywhere. I have not found a good map, and the streets, when signed, are signed differently on different sections. We did better today.
Our first trip was on Saturday and we stopped to look at a place that makes wood furniture. We ended up negotiating the purchase of a queen bed, two twin beds, and a table. The beds all have built in storage to make up for the lack of storage in our villa. We paid a bit more than we could have, but I like to leave something on the table for the other guy, and the spokesman (son of the owner, who was an excellent interpretive drawer and spoke more Engish than anyone else) promised to have the beds done and ready for delivery on January 12, three days before our daughter Stacia and her family arrive for a ten day visit. Our plan has been for them to stay in the villa, while we stay a short distance away in our rental house. The back up plan is for them to stay in the house with us, but that would be a bit crowded, though fun.
We ate lunch at the restaurant owned by the same family that operates the furniture factory. It is nearby and serves “tipico” Panamanian food. We had two tamales, some yucca, and juego naturales for $4.50. We had dinner nearby on our return from Panama and paid about $17.00.
When we returned in the evening we called our grandkids who were gathered for the two Christmas birthdays (our daughter Sarah 37, and Stacia’s son Clay 11). Clay is quite the compute whiz. He prompted us to get a web cam. We called computer to computer over skype at no cost and had a great time. We were sitting outside Mail Boxes Etc., using their wi-fi. Our picture to them was of us sitting in our car, lighted only by the car’s dome light, while it rained outside in the dark!
After that call, we answered some email, and found that our high school friend Karen Kalish was on line, so we called her. We have been discussing having Karen visit us in early February. We worked out a few of the logistic details before our battery power for our PC eroded and cut off the call. I think it is so great that Karen is coming to Panama. A few months ago, a good friend of mine died suddenly, during the week she was scheduled to be in Panama for a conference involving her as a leader for Microsoft’s charitable giving efforts. I had been working to introduce Beth and Karen. They shared similar work and enthusiastic personalities.
We have had some unbelievable rain storms. They tell us that this is unusual for the tail end of the rainy season. Two of them in the past few days were about an hour of torrential downpour. In Panama an empty canal filled up while we were not looking. The streets run with water for hours afterward. There are large lakes of water on the highway, slowing the driving speeds. The standard highway speed is 100 kilometers per hour, reduced to 80 near areas having a pedestrian bidge, or 60 in larger towns. That 60, KPH, about 36 Miles per hour.
Buenos Noches.
The pictures are of the drawing for our bed, the wood from which the furniture will be made, a quick shot of the canal from the Balboa bridge.
End of Dispatch 6
Thursday Morning, December 20
We have continued our daily schedule. After our leisurely morning of swimming, walking, breakfasting and cleaning, we head to the Mail Boxes Etc. to check our email and conduct some business. I have been downloading songs for my mp3 player which gives us something to listen to that we can understand. These devices are marvelous.
This morning on our beach walk we bumped into a neighbor returning home with his surf board. He had been up to catch the 5:10 low tide at San Carlos, just up the beach. He checks tides at http://www.magicseaweed.com/ and tells us there is a good surfing instructor right on our beach at the Coronado beach club. She take learners to San Carlos for the lessons, I believe.
We were exploring San Carlos on Tuesday. It is a legitimate beach community and would be great place to live. We are enjoying the proximity to the beach and the diversity of Gorgona. San Carlos is similar, but not so far advanced with regard to condo developments. The Bayview where we ate last week is in San Carlos.
Yesterday afternoon we headed to Penonome, a major market and shopping destination. It is on the Interamerican Highway, but where it heads inland into cattle country. We are shopping for appliances for our villa: washer, drier, counter top stove, two more split a/c units, fans and refrigerator. I think we met the king of deals in one of the stores. He was of Islamic heritage, though he pointed out he was a Christian. There is a large Muslim presence in Panama. Also Chinese dating from the French attempt at a canal about 1860. They run a lot of shops and Chinese Restaurants. The Woo family has a ferreteria (hardware store)in Sora, near Altos. The local story is that some members of their family were kidnapped by the Chinese Mafia. A demand was made of the family in China before the local family was even aware of the abduction. We are all concerned for the family and waiting further news.
At any rate I gave George our list of needs, and he said he would get us the best prices in Panama.
While in Penonome we ate a lunch purchased at a sidewalk vender, working under a tent with electricity for blenders: Two batidos (milk shake, heavy on the fruit, light on the milk), half a chicken, yucca and fried rice for $6.50. When we get hot, we stop for an Arroz con Pina juice drink: rice with pineapple. $.25.
The streets were crowded with venders and shoppers. Christmas is big here, relative to France, but less intense commercially than the US. Lots of lights, nativity scenes and Christmas trees. On the 15th the workers received their standard pay, plus the required 13th month salary, so they are flush. We will wait until after the Christmas rush to buy our appliances.
End of Dispatch 7
jwleet@aol.com,Ccampbel@Tulane.edu,enibloc@hotmail.com,jancastro1@gmail.com,Janetrease@gmail.com,jule@comcast.net,Kalcoms@aol.com,Kathrynmusholt@sbcglobal.net,lego_builder@earthlink.net,Lucinda.hakansson@edu.karlskoga.se,mjvtz@bellsouth.net,nrmoeller@yahoo.com,pabby@comcast.net,pegmorgan@uuma.org,rasl1@yahoo.com,sarahjayneleet@earthlink.net,sherrill@academicinstitute.com,smcmo@aol.com,Stacialon@comcast.net,susancastelazo@comcast.net,thesmellyarmpit@comcast.net, MsMarilynSamuels
Thursday Evening December 20
I just responded to an email from a high school friend who has raised her family in Sweden. Cindy had pneumonia but is recovering. I have found in swimming and exercise that the main thing, especially as one ages, is to not go backwards. I takes too long to recover if one does not take the time to rest properly the first time.
In the past two days we have met two couples from Norway, one man from Holland, and some young gals from Sweden. We had drinks with the two couples this evening. I think the Scandinavians are taking over Panama! We are glad for their entry. Actually, US influx may be cooling and Canadian, European and South American immigration and tourism are on the rise.
The temperature is basically the same in Panama all year round. It depends more on location. During the rainy season, which is nearly over, the temperature will drop during a storm. We heard some school girls complain that it was cold today during a storm. We laughed. It was still at least 80 degrees F. 85 to 90 F is probably average, but there are good breezes, and one gets out of the sun during he middle of the day.
Christmas is big here, both religiously and commercially. We have tired of the commercialism in the US. We enjoyed Christmas in France in '93: Almost no commercialism, just a small family celebration and church attendance. In Panama we see lights, Christmas trees and special sales. It is enough, but there will probably be more as the years go on.
Panama is largely Catholic, though I do not see many people in the churches. Many children are educated in the parochial schools, so this keeps Catholicism strong.
I value the community aspects of the various holidays. Thanksgiving is my favorite. I am active in the Unitarian Universalist fellowship in West Seattle. I think our web site is wsuu.org, if you want to take a look. It is a fellowship that welcomes all people and does not have any dogma. We do understand the value of ritual and celebrate the various holidays with our own interpretation or non-interpretation. Probably 20% of our members are atheists, 40% agnostics, and the rest deists who do not believe in a personal god, that is one that suspends the laws of nature to answer a prayer. Cindy in Sweden tells me that for the day after Christmas, they go visit all their friend and neighbors. I think that sound like a great tradition. What do you think, Reverend Peg .
Cindy was thrilled by the speech Gore gave when awarded his share of the Nobel Peace Prize. We have been so disappointed in Bush. We did not vote for him, as a majority of Americans did not. I had hoped he would be a do nothing Republican, but he has been a neo-Fascist. Being in Panama, isolated from the daily bad news, has been a great relief. I had some small hope that Gore would be drafted to run again, but that doesn't appear likely. I have given money to Edwards and like Obama. Any of the Democrats would keep us out of future messes like Bush has floundered into.
I’ll try to return to the joys of travel, but the contrast between the underlying goodwill of the season and the actions I see the US taking causes me great deal of pain. Fortunately it is joyfully sunny here, and one cannot remain depressed for more than half a moment. One gets a week’s worth of vitamin D in a few hours on the beach!
End Dispatch 8
Monday Evening December 24
We are sitting home reading. Most things closed early today.
We started our day with our joyous swim and beach walk. We drove up to the Coronado shopping area where the Mail Boxes Etc. is located. We had left our power cord, which put a damper on doing any computer work at home. It is amazing how dependent we become on these technological gadgets.
We tried to call our daughter Sarah to wish her a happy birthday, but we were not able to get through. Happy Birthday, Sarah! We had reached her and our grandson Clayton a few days ago. His 11th birthday is Dec. 23. His email is “thesmellyarmpit”!
Part of my ongoing activity at the Mail Boxes Etc. is to download songs for our MP3 player. It is great to have. I’m still looking for a source of downloadable NPR-type commentary. If anyone is a whiz at such things, please inform us as to how we can do this.
We dropped in to see a new friend, who’s wife is back in the states to be with her brother who is dying. People do just drop on each other here. Of course, everyone can afford a maid, at less than $200 a month! So that makes it easier. We are looking for a maid to share with some others in the villa. Even the simple act of pushing a broom in the middle of the day causes one to sweat. The owner of La Ruina,a native Panamanian, said she has someone she uses two days a week, and she would check to see if she has some free days.
We had our Christmas eve dinner at Don Chacho’s, one of our favorites. We get Pollo entero, mixto vegetales, dos limonadas, y platenos. It is a family run restaurant and the school age daughters were present today, and having fun. See our photo, and note the decorations. Our dinner with our 10% tip was $15. Sometimes the tip is already in the bill, so one needs to look.
On Sunday we got going early (only I went for a swim) for a trip to El Valle. It is a valley over the mountains and is about an hour away. It is an established community and an arts, crafts and produce market for a broad area. I bought my Panama hat there last February.
We were looking for a source for baskets to use for storage in our villa. We were successful. We bought one large one for $12 (see photo), ordered another one and began negotiations for about twenty smaller baskets that we will need when the villa is ready. The large basket we bought is large enough for our five year old grandkids to hide in. Jayne bought some woven fish (see photo) and we bought some fruits and vegetables.
On our way home we picked up our shoes which we had bought each other for Christmas. See me posing with the shoemaker. $12 each pair. Made to fit.
We continue to struggle with getting our villa ready for Stacia and her family. We have some allies who own villas in the complex. I think we are making progress, and we are prepared to have someone else finish off the last details, if necessary.
We also stopped to look at some rustic wood furniture. It is very inexpensive, can be made quickly, and we like the look. The one manufacturer said his was made of teak, which is a common wood. There are large programs for teak growing. One can get to the head of the line for a residency visa or citizenship by buying a small teak farm, for about $40,000. They claim an 11% cash yield annually for an investor.
Last evening I went for a sunset walk to the villa. This evening I went the same direction, more or less South, but continued past the villa for a mile or two. The walks took me though the fish coop area and I realized that this must be one of the safest beaches possible. The coop always has members watching their several dozen boats which are their livelihood. See the pictures of the beach, the sunset and villa from the beach.
Some caution us to not walk on the beach at night, but within reason I think they are safe. There are no people on the beaches at night. Heck, there are almost no people on the beaches in the day. The most people I have seen on the beach was on a Holiday. There were two large families. Most mornings there are one or two other couples walking on the beach. Panamanians, basically, don’t seem to like to swim and the expats prefer do other things, though they all want water view.
We met a few more people again today. There was one day that we met only one new person. People are looking for connection.
We have been invited to a Christmas day dinner in Altos.
.
End of Dispatch 9
jwleet@aol.com,Ccampbel@Tulane.edu,enibloc@hotmail.com,jancastro1@gmail.com,Janetrease@gmail.com,jule@comcast.net,Kalcoms@aol.com,Kathrynmusholt@sbcglobal.net,lego_builder@earthlink.net,Lucinda.hakansson@edu.karlskoga.se,mjvtz@bellsouth.net,nrmoeller@yahoo.com,pabby@comcast.net,pegmorgan@uuma.org,rasl1@yahoo.com,sarahjayneleet@earthlink.net,sherrill@academicinstitute.com,smcmo@aol.com,Stacialon@comcast.net,susancastelazo@comcast.net,thesmellyarmpit@comcast.net, MsMarilynSamuels
Thursday Evening, December 27
We have had an eventful few days.
On Christmas Day we took an especially long swim and walk along the surf. We saw over 25 people in the 2 ½ hours we were on the beach! A group of local Panamanians were even playing soccer on a flat piece of sand surrounded by water. We saw a few of our local neighbors on the beach, as well.
In late afternoon we drove up the hill to Altos for a dinner with Rachel and Geroge and Melissa and Dan. We took one of the more expensive bottles of wine we could find in the store, something less than $4. It was from Argentina and excellent.
We had a very traditional Turkey dinner with mashed potatoes, cranberries, yams, stuffing… The works! It was a fine meal with great conversation.
We expressed our need to become better oriented to Panama, and Melissa volunteered to ride along with us to the city the next morning. We accepted her offer, and met her at the local Pio Pio (fast food chicken, done slowly and better). We drove in over the Avenue of the Americas Bridge to the Albrook Mall, then to a meeting with our developer in the Global Bank Buildling, the Multi-Max center for lunch and a visit to the ritzy grocery store Riba Smith and the Do It store to look at appliances. We dropped off some documents to our attorney and headed out of town.
Melissa is a former E R nurse, recently married to an E R Doc. They set off three years ago to travel the world, but took a hiatus when they reached Altos. They are completing a house and then plan to continue their travels. We dropped Melissa off at the Pio Pio and she took a bus up the hill to Altos. It was fine day, and we now know how to get around in Panama City a little better.
We arrived in Coronado in time for the expat dinner. We saw some old, new friends and met some more. Ty and Kris are from Pocotello Idado, and Ty worked in a community health center that Jayne worked with. They seem a little bored with life in Altos and wanted to see what we have bought in Gorgona. A unit has just become available for resale, so perhaps their timing is right.
Today we took a quick walk and dip and headed over to the villas. We had hoped to meet the dish TV guy, but no luck. We did meet our contract at the developer and her brother, the architect. We did another walk through and they have assured us that everything will be done (with a few minor exceptions) by January 10. We are going to continue making our purchases with that as a target date.
We went for a swim in the pool, while discussing the project with our neighbors. The water was pleasantly cool. We think the grandkids will like it. We checked our email at Mail Boxes Etc., had a Greek Salad, lentil soup and platenoes at the Malibu restaurant, and then drove back to our neighborhood and stopped for wine and flan at La Ruina. We closed the place at 9:00 talking marketing with the owner.
We may drive in to Panama tomorrow to find more items for the villa. Fans and washer/drier and a/c splits are on the top of the list.
I’ll enclose a picture of our Christmas dinner group. Note our new shoes Jayne and I gave to each other. My shirt is one of my favorites, purchased in the Zona Rosa in Mexico City in 1991!
End dispatch #10
Sunday Evening December 30, 2007
On Friday we had lunch with Bill and his two friends at La Ruina. Bill is a web designer and built one for La Ruina. Unfortunately, Frank does not use the internet. Bill and I think La Ruina would benefit greatly from offering internet service. The service is not very available in our part of town yet. We are concererned that the owners of La Ruina are not capitalizing on their tremendous assets, and will not survive, or just limp along, which is worse than not surviving. It should be a real asset for the community.
On Saturday we drove into the El Dorado mall in Panama. It is an old mall, with open air corridors. Finding parking was very difficult, but when we did there was a mall employee to watch our car. We tipped him $2 later when we came out from our shopping, some three hours later.
The mall has an interesting mix of stores. We patronized a stand that drilled holes in coconuts and dispensed fresh coconut juice, very refreshing. We had a lunch for less than $7 for two, consisting of an entre (turkey and ham), fried plantains, coleslaw, rice, etc. Very quick. Very good. We shared a table with a Panamanian couple.
We then shopped at Saks (not 5th avenue, Tumbo Muerte!). It was amazing. The first thing I saw when I entered the store was a display of $240 Speedo, full body, lycra racing suits for $4. Less for children’s sizes. I bought all they had for $153, which I think is something over $12,000 at retail. I’m sure my teammates in Seattle will love to have some at a substantial discount over retail. I then placed them in the deposito for safe keeping. One does not carry one’s packages around in the store while shopping. You get a number and do not need to tip.
We then bought things we need for our villa: plates, flatware, sheets, towels, chairs. We had a very attentive sales person. We filled our car’s trunk and back seat for about $300. Absolutely amazing prices. I am not one who enjoys most shopping (other than grocery shopping), but this was fun.
After we paid, the bags were loaded on a cart and another employee carried everything to our car for us. I tipped him $1. It is hard to know what to tip, but you don’t want young kids making more in tips than their parents who struggle in the trades.
We had dinner at a quieter version of the restaurant at which we ate lunch. It reminded me of the Popes in Clayton Westroads and on Grand Avenue. They had futbol on wide screen TV, but no sound. The food was good, again. For $8.50 we had one entre, several sides, two juices, and a fruit plate.
Jayne negotiated our one turn out of town to the Interamerican, passed the Rod Carew Stadium and back to Gorgona. She is doing all the driving while I recuperate from my rotator cuff surgery. I get all the sightseeing and try to hold my tongue. One of our great high school experiences was when we entered a gas economy rally in my Morris Minor. I drove. She navigated. We made a good team. We still do, but it works better when I am driving and she is navigating. Navigating here is difficult. The streets are not clearly marked, and there are no good Panama City maps. Entire traffic circles are missing, and one street may have several names. Driving at night, which she was doing on our return, is difficult until one knows where the potholes are. The roads are much better than Costa Rico, but there are challenges.
We will be back in to El Dorado and some other shopping areas soon. We need a number of things, including all our appliances.
Speaking of the Rod Carew stadium: I noticed they seemed to be getting it ready for baseball season. There is almost no parking, and it is in the middle of large jungle park, so taking he bus would be the thing to do. Soccer (futbol) is king, but baseball is also big.
We entertained our first set of friends today. Our new friends from Pocatello had indicated an interest in seeing our villa, and the beach, so we invited them to arrive at 8AM for a walk, swim, tour of the villa, a trip to the fish market, and a breakfast. We had a pleasant time, and were out of the sun before 10. Our breakfast is usually pan fried fish (red snapper today), fried tortillas, green tea, and fresh fruit smoothies (papaya with pina today). While talking we saw a two foot long Iguana cross our yard. Ty has been a practicing physician and football coach and Kris a teacher, so we had plenty to talk about. Doing this in the morning shows our area off to its best advantage, and they didn’t have to drive back the mountain to Altos in the dark.
This afternoon we had an early dinner at an old favorite restaurant on the beach in Santa Clara, where we had stayed last January when we first arrived in Panama. There were actually several hundred people swimming and enjoying the beach We had caviche, which is fish or shrimp “cooked” in lemon juice, no heat involved. We also had pino batidos and a fruit plate of papaya and pina. All for $12.50. This is part of a resort complex, so prices are higher, but still reasonable and worth the money.
On the way over and back we saw more of the manikins we have been seeing by the side of the road. Some have signs. One, which I will try to photograph tomorrow, looks like George Bush. We are told they will be burned for the new year, something like burning man, or the year end throwing away of troubles by burning pieces of paper at some church services. There is an increased police presence on the highway, as there has been for other holidays.
End of Dispatch #11.
Monday Evening, January 1, 2008
For the last day of the year we had a swim, a walk on the beach, a leisurely breakfast of a papaya smoothie, red snapper, fried tortilla with jam, and green tea. What else is new?
We spent some time checking email and attempting to call the kids on skype, but the Mail Boxes Etc. closed early, thwarting that effort. We had a nice meal at Don Chacho’s: chicken, vegetables, smoothies, and patacones. Half the chicken is taken home to eat another day.
We met more interesting people, including a man who has started a real estate inspection service to fill the void in Panama. We me another man who seemed t know everyone. He invited us to his home to see if we would know anyone who would like to buy half a waterfront lot for $425,000. Actually, it is not a bad deal, given the dramatic cliff view and the neighborhood, and beach access. We ended up talking about possibilities of land development syndication.
In the evening we went for a stroll through our village, watching the kids light fireworks and play in the streets. The streets are primarily for pedestrian use.
We did not sleep well last night, as the fusillade of fireworks exploded all night long. Today the explosions were replaced by booming bass speakers and assorted loud music. Panamanians do love to party. We escaped by turning on the noisy air conditioner unit and taking a New Years Day celebratory nap.
We met some new people at our villa, and discussed the future of our maintenance fees with other owners. The original $50 per month may now be $150. Other owners are concerned, whether they be Panamanian or Canadian. The big item is security. We now have a heavily armed guard 24/7. Something less military would work just as well. A full time maintenance staff would be cost effective.
This morning we took a swim and a walk, and ate a leisurely breakfast, but more so because most places are closed and there was nothing special we needed to do.
We spent almost three hours talking over Skype to our kids and grandkids and my mother. The web cam makes it almost like being with them. It is great!
I must clean the bones out of my fish head stew I made today. It smells good. I’ll let you know.
I hope this day begins what will be a very happy new year for you. Time is the limited commodity. “Get busy living , or get busy dying.”
End Dispatch #12
Saturday Evening, January 5, 2008
We continue to struggle with getting our villa completed, while beginning every day with a swim, walk and leisurely breakfast, with only the occasional quick breakfast for an early getaway for shopping for furnishing the villa.
On Wednesday the 2nd we drove into the Eldorado area to sign a document for the villa. When we got there, we found no one who spoke any English and 5 new documents. After some phone calls, we arranged to have the documents shipped to our local branch where there is an assistant who, though not very knowledgeable about banking procedures, speak Spanish and English and Japanese (though that has not come in very handy, yet).
At the Eldorado Mall we also bought some more furnishing items at Saks. I have found out that the full body racing suits I bought there are actually in great demand by the surfers to avoid being stung by the aqua males (jelly fish). I brought one down for that reason. The water is getting cooler, and foretells their return.
On Thursday the 3rd we spent a few hours with the aforementioned assistant, Gerte. We left thinking all was completed, but received a cheerfully irate (no one gets angry or raises their voice in Panama) message from the developer spokeswoman (Irma), asking why we had not signed the actual deed. The reason is that we were told we didn’t need to.
On Friday the 4th we returned again to our local branch, signed the specified deed, asked some questions which we were assured would be answered, like where was the specifically mentioned translation of the document? We also filled out the papers for an account, which is a requirement for having a loan. We had been told this had been approved and done several months ago. We had to meet some friends for lunch, so we only completed the application for the Savings account, and put in some money to open the account.
We met our lunch friends, Ty and Kris from Pocatello, Idaho at a small typico Fonda in Sora, near our lot in Altos del Maria. We each chose either the chicken or beef lunch with a coke or fresca. It was very basic, but good.
The four of us spent the afternoon exploring various houses in Altos. We dropped in on Howard and Ziggy from GB and Belgium. They had their house built ($76,000 for about 800sq. ft) while not here, trusting the surpervision of their architect. It turned out fairly well. I think I will contact their architect to discuss drawing up some plans for a small casita on our lot. Our current thinking is that we will do small casitas wherever we like, around the world, if possible. Our house in altos would probably be a little smaller than Howard and Ziggy’s.
Friday night I loaded 45 new tunes in my MP3. I accidentally erased the 220 songs I had! It was very quiet for a few days. This time I downloaded more classical. They never get old.
Today was laundry day, after our breakfast of fresh Langastinos. It takes some energy to do laundry here. Any effort in the heat of the day is exhausting! During those hot hours, we are usually driving somewhere in the air conditioned car.
This evening we dined at La Ruina. We had a pleasant business oriented conversation with the owner. He sees what is happening to the area and wants to capitalize on the growth. We also met a couple from Texas who complained about how poorly Bush was doing and how he has taken the country in much too liberal a direction. We probably won’t keep them on our social card.
For those of you who have been enticed to schedule a trip to Panama, you might want to know what items we are glad we brought, sorry we brought, glad we didn’t bring, and sorry we didn’t bring.
I am glad I brought: my non cotton clothes, my cargo pants with zip off bottoms (put back on to visit the banker), my Keens, my Panama Hat (though available here), my rechargeable batteries and battery charger, our travel coffee pot and travel pan, card for easy access to cash for places that don’t take cards.
I’m sorry I brought: too many clothes, extra pairs of long pants,
I’m glad I didn’t bring: lots of things
I’m sorry I didn’t bring: My beach Teeva sandals (though flip flops work well), my travel books and good map of Panama.
I may think of some other items.
Pack light. The taxis are small.
I've attached some photos showing Jayne schlepping the AC box and putting up the laundry, as well as a house by the architect we are considering. I am currently almost 7 weeks post op on my rotator cuff surgery and have almost full mobility. Though I can swim a few miles every day I can't pick up anything heavy, so Jayne gets to do it, including the 5 gallon drinking water bottle, and doing all the driving, which can be quite shocking with numerous potholes.
End Dispatch 13
Tuesday Evening, January 8, 2008
Today we have been into Panama to shop for appliances. We have purchased three split A/C units which need to be installed. We also made arrangements for the gas people to come out with a 100 LB canister of gas for our stove, clothes dries and barbeque. I had scheduled that for tomorrow, but need to postpone the visit until we have the appliances.
We feel like we need to have a refrigerator and fans for our visitors. The clothes washer and drier can wait a bit.
We had previously ordered our beds and went to check on the progress on Sunday. Nothing had happened, but the responsible party assured us they would be ready and that we should come back on Thursday to view the progress. We had a nice lunch at his family restaurant. We learned that the father and son play guitars together during the late morning at the restaurant, when they are not too busy. They were very busy on Sunday because of the Holiday.
There seem to be a lot of holidays here. This one was moved to allow for a three day weekend and everyone headed for the beaches. See the picture of our normally empty beach, just before sundown.
This holiday commemorates the shooting deaths of several students, shot by American military in the late 60’s. I told the youngest male family member at the restaurant, that the military (national guard) was shooting people in the US too, so not to feel alone. The students were demonstrating for the US to get out of the canal zone. We felt that it would be better to claim Canadian citizenship for the day.
We have had one person berate us for Bush’s blunders. We told him he was preaching to the choir. He was a little strange. He approached us while we were in the water in front of where he apparently lived. He swam in and asked us what our religion was. He went on to tell us he was a reincarnation of Jeremiah. He was from Israel, via a long stay in the US and now Panama. I asked him which land was his, since one cannot be a prophet in his own land.
We have not had any rain for 10 days. The dry season is here. And with it, we are told, serious partying on the beaches on the weekends. It is mostly people splashing and listening to very loud music. Lots of families.
Janice Garden Castro, an old HS friend, had asked me about the armed guard at our villa. Is it that dangerous? No. I feel safe everywhere. I often walk up to the internet café, three blocks from our rental, at 9 or 10 at night. There are no street lights or sidewalks. I am the only gringo for a few miles and am greeted as I walk. The armed guard is a marketing ploy by our developer, and an effort to make sure their equipment is not stolen while no one is living in the project.
We had intended to go to Panama yesterday, but were informed (incorrectly) that the malls were closed. We shopped locally. One of our stops was to order a set of two sofas and a table made of rough wood, for the corner of the living room. It will be similar to what we are posing on in the picture. Price delivered $230. We’ve seen cheaper, but the quality was not as good. We had the craftsman redesign a bit to allow for basket storage under the seats. The sofas cold be back up sleeping for grandkids. We will have the queen and two twin beds. We are looking for good mattresses. We have had full foam mattresses for years, but cannot find them here.
It seems that the full body racing suits I bought are highly coveted by the surfers for protection from the jelly fish. I think I have enough for any visiting adult and child who wants one. Haven’t felt any jelly fish yet, but the water is getting colder.
I talked to my Mother last night via Skype. She had a good trip to Hawaii, though she suffered from a significant nose bleed. She is very appreciative of children and grandchildren who have stopped by. She informs me that Wally Lundt is 80 this year. He coached me and my two daughters in competitive swimming and water polo. His induction into the national water polo hall of fame inspired me to start playing again a few years ago.
End Dispatch #14
Friday Morning, January 11, 2008
Just some pictures of our breakfast. The tortilla comes wrapped in a leaf. It is boiled for 20 minutes.
My local internet provider.
A local good road. They vary greatly.
End Dispatch #15
Friday Evening, January 11, 2008
The week whizzed by. Every day is a success before breakfast with our swim and walk on the beach. A few of the days we had a relatively quick breakfast and then began our chores. We are trying to get what we need for the Villa to be habitable and everything done legally so we can take possession.
Today we learned that the workers had concreted our entire back yard! The agreement was for them to install a French drain to handle the excess water in the rainy season, move the compressor pad to the back fence, build a wall around the tree, and lay gramma block. We were very upset, which is something the Panamanians never allow to happen. We were on the phone with our engineer/translator, the head developer person (Irma), and the Spanish only foreman. We have been assured that it will be ripped out and corrected.
Tomorrow is a big day if everyone shows up: The Satellite TV guy, our sofa delivery, the foreman with all the keys for our unit, the Do It Center with our washer, drier, refrigerator, fans and barbeque, and Erik Edwards who sold us our Altos lot with some final paper work.
We spent one full day going into Panama again to pick out the appliances. On the way we stopped to check on our beds again. Nothing had started. The squeaky wheel gets the grease, so we keep showing up. We will drop by again tomorrow. I think they will have made some progress. If not, we can borrow three of their beds for our visit by our daughter Stacia and her family.
We are, by necessity, getting better at getting around in Panama. Jayne says I only “yelled” at her once. It is tough being a passenger. We still get lost if we come into town over the Bridge of the Americas, but we can get to all the areas in town.
I don’t know if I can give you an image of the traffic in Panama using my pictures, but I’ll send a few. Every city has its own rules and traffic logic. I don’t know if there are any reliable traffic statistics for Panama, but there seem to be fewer accidents than one would expect. In the event of an accident, the parties are to stay there, without moving he vehicles, until the police arrive. During the wait a negotiation often occurs, the deal settled, and the drivers proceed.
You have to be aggressive to drive here. People don’t understand what you are doing if you are too courteous. It confuses them. People own the roads. Pedestrians, that is. In Gorgona kids will sit on the street at night to talk. It doesn’t make sense to sit in the grass, too buggy. The pathways were for pedestrians long before auto traffic showed up.
I think we found a cleaning girl. Though we could have afforded it, we never used anyone to clean in the states. The disparity bothered us. Here it seems as if we are helping the economy, and taking a great strain off ourselves. It takes a lot of energy to push a broom in the heat. The going rate is $10 per day. With the sand, there is a lot to clean. If you leave a drop of juice on the counter, it will be engulfed by the tiniest bugs you have ever seen in a matter of several minutes.
You may be wondering how the fish head stew turned out. Fairly well. I removed all the meat, skin and bones, leaving a broth. We used this to cook some langastinos. Then, we added celery, carrots, cabbage etc. to make a soup. It was good. I didn’t ask for the fish heads today, though.
We have arranged for a surf lesson for any child, or adult, who wants on Saturday, January 19. The teacher is well recommended and the site is nearby. You have to be there at 8:00, requiring you to leave the villa a little after 7:00. The low tide that day is 6:30. Flor, the teacher, has a four year old son who is getting into surfing, and says she can tailor the instruction and situation to fit the skill of the student.
We have also learned more about possible snorkeling locations, fishing trips, and even river rafting.
I swam in my full body swim suit today. I was stung by a jelly fish yesterday. I felt some tentacles, but no stings, today.
I've attached pictures of Rod Carew Stadium, located on a good highway, in the middle of a national park, near the city and with almost no parking. A panhandler in a wheel chair. They and sales people are at every intersection. Detail on the side of a Red Devil bus, a ride on which is feared by many, but used by most.
End of Dispatch 16
Thursday Afternoon, January 17, 2008
We have had a very hectic week, beginning with our big delivery day last Saturday.
As I write this, I am sitting on our Terrazzo waiting (hoping) for the air conditioning man to appear and complete the installation of our split a/c units. He came earlier in the week, but the pad for the compressors was not ready, so he took $300 to buy some tubing, returned with a receipt for the goods, and indicated he would be back on Wednesday, after conferring with the construction foreman, Julio. Well, here I am, and cannot track him down. He is known in the community, was referred by my electrician, who was himself referred by our landlady, Elvie, so I believe he will be here manana. Elvie frequently serves as our translator. She is excellent. She used to work for the canal administration and Wesley Clark, one of my choices last time around for the US Presidency. I though we needed a military hero to defeat the draft dodger. I was probably right, but Kerry wasn’t hero enough, apparently. But I digress.
On Saturday we took delivery of our washer, drier, stove top and barbeque. This confirmed that the laundry room was too small for these units to be placed conventionally, but we got them in, and made plans to open up the wall in the future. The refrigerator was, as we knew in advance, too large for the space allowed. Two days later, the tiles around the base of the space had been removed and repainted, and the cabinet downsized by an experto who came from Panama City. The 27 inch, very tall Samsun refrigerator, which opens into the kitchen is now installed and seems to be at home.
The barbacoa turned out to be missing some key parts when we opened it. We had checked the parts at the store, the Do It Center, which is like a Lowe’s, and they were all there. We think a different box was substituted. I am working on getting a new one shipped on Saturday, their regular date for delivery to Gorgona.
Erik Edwards, our salesman for our lot in Altos del Maria, brought some paperwork by. He is looking for lots in Gorgona. I’d like to find some to hold for a while. The place is beginning to boom.
The satellite TV guy came late in the afternoon, but did call a few times to say he would be late. He can get us a satellite system from Puerto Rico which would have the US networks, plus the Turner channels, CNN, CSPAN, ESPN etc. Most satellite systems here only have Spanish language channels. His are from Puerto Rico and because they have been installed their briefly, can be installed here. Legal? I don’t know. We paid our first bribe to a policeman this week, so we are already morally compromised! What’s a few possibly illegal channels? The cost is similar to the regular service, $45 or so per month, after installation. The policeman stopped us for an imaginary violation of not returning to the slow lane after passing. The slow lane is filled with pot holes. I was going to let him write the ticket, but he offered to let us buy him a cup of coffee. I asked if $10 would accomplish that, and he said yes. The transaction took about 45 minutes, so we made him work for his money. This is a way of life here. Everyone experiences it. It was an upsetting experience. When we were in Africa with Sarah, she handled such things so we were insulated. I do not enjoy participating in deception. Next time, when the officer I sizing me up for the size of the bribe, and asked what I did before retiring, I think I will emphasize my consulting work with the police department in St. Louis, about 40 years ago now, but it might reduce the size of the payment.
I’m really more concerned about getting internet. We have adjusted to not having the constant morphine drip. I’m keeping my MP3 player filled, and listening to some old favorites in the evening. There is plenty to keep the mind occupied. Trying to learn to communicate in Spanish takes a lot of brain cells. One needs something familiar to rest in.
It has begun to rain. We actually had three rain storms in the past four days, which is very unusual for this time of year. It is a warm rain, and cools everything off. It spoiled some newly poured concrete yesterday, but the workers repaired it today.
We did hire our cleaning lady. Her name is Lilly. She is a young single mother of three, speaks very little English. She lives nearby and rides her bike to our house. She cleans with great initiative, though she uses a lot more soap than we would. But we’re not. We have hired her for two days a week, $10 per day. One day at each house. After we return to Seattle, I hope we will be organized enough to continue using her to clean the villa, since we will be renting it out.
The last delivery on Saturday was our two sofas and a table, made with small logs, of what he claimed to be cedar. He had a hard time finding our location. When he arrived the design was wrong with regards to the pattern on the back, but ok for storage and size, and potential supplemental sleeping. I didn’t care, and Jayne decided she could live with the alternate pattern. The color, however was another matter. We wanted a mahogany (mas rojo), but it was blond. After much negotiation we allowed him leave to purchase some stain and do the job in our living room. It took a few hours, but he and a helper got it done. They did create a bit of a mess on the floor and wall. I kept pointing out things for them to clean up with their kerosene. Eventually, I told him it was done, and that I was going to withhold $10 por limpio (cleaning). He was not happy, but it seemed a fair solution.
We have been checking on our beds regularly. They were not begun as scheduled. When they were begun, the Queen bed was not tall enough to give the storage we wanted. Ariel and his family graciously made the changes, once they understood them They thought the bed would be too tall.
On another trip we found that the twin beds were too big, 60 inches wide instead of 40. They had confused twin with twins, which to them would imply beds for two people. I think they have it now. We are to view the completed project at 5:00 today, and have them delivered. They are a lovely family, and we have enjoyed them and their restaurant. At some point we want to see the father and son, second and third generation, perform on their guitars at the Margot Restaurant. We love their food, including the corn tortillas wrapped in a large leaf, which we get to go. About $.50 each.
This week we also had the fans installed, which will make the villa very comfortable, even if the a/c man never shows. The plumber came to hook up the instant hot water. Everyone uses instant hot water because of the high cost of electricity. Because of that cost I have had a tank of propane installed and lines run to the barbacoa, gas secadora and estuffa. The line ended up being on the outside of the house, instead of in the wall as I had expected, but I’m learning to get along, and will have it painted white to match the house.
I thought I had lost my swim fins this week. I had left them on the lava while I went back into the ocean to take off my full body suit, which protects me from jelly fish. When I came out of the water, the fins were gone, washed away by unexpectedly high waves. I searched but thought I would just have to figure out a better way to swim and keep the stress off my healing shoulder, and strengthen my kick. The next morning, a woman whom I had chatted with a few days ealier, saw me heading to my swim, and told me the fins had washed up to her while she was swimming. She remembered me having them, and kept them, checking with various people who she thought might know me. I retrieved them while chatting with her. She was another intrepid traveler from Colorado, traveling on her own to all parts of the world. One meets very interesting people her. It is the best part of traveling.
We went to a nice dinner with two other couples on Tuesday night. One couple is from Canada. The other is American and Colombian. We had a great time.
We have been so busy that we thought yesterday was the day our daughter Stacia and her family were arriving. It is actually today.
The rain has stopped. I will go to pick up Jayne in our new rental car, a large diesel Toyota Land Cruiser. This will accommodate the six of us over the rough roads and give us a lot of traveling flexibility. I’ll let you know how it works out.
End of Dispatch 17
Tuesday Morning, January 22, 2008
I have some time to write now, but first I will ship some pictures to complete your understanding of our bed.
They were completed and delivered the day our daughter and family flew in to Panama. With the additional inches that the Panama style ads to the frame, the beds overwhelm the small rooms, but they give us storage, which is entirely lacking in our villa. In addition the mattress for the Queen is much higher than we are used to. The result is that a person shorter than me (still 6’0”) needs a step stool to get into the bed. We bought one for Jayne’s side.
Yesterday we drove to the market at El Valle and I ordered ten baskets of various sizes which will fit one twin bed and one side of the queen. They will be ready in two weeks.
Jayne has arrived with grandkids Lilly and Clay, so time to fix breakfast.
End of Dispatch # 18
Thursday Afternoon, January 24
On the day I wrote one week ago, our older daughter Stacia, her husband Lonnie, and her two children, Clay (11) and Lilly (6) arrived. We have introduced them to our new home.
The first order of business after picking them up from the Albrook Inn, where they had spent their first night, was to visit the Mira Flores Locks of the Canal. It is where everyone goes to see the Canal. It has an excellent series of educational exhibits, and some historical films.
The next morning Clay and Lonnie had a surfing lesson at nearby San Carlos. Flor was an excellent teacher. I think they are happy with merely boogie boarding on the waves near the villa. We now understand that the best waves come around low tide. Before that time, the water is flat. Too much later, the waves crash on the beach, causing a face plant. Lilly is doing well with her boogie boarding. She actually broke her pink board I half! What a girl!!
The low tide was 6:30 AM on Friday, and will be about 1:00 PM ten days later when they leave. This means that the sun will be out in full effect for many of the days’ prime boarding time, so we have to watch the burns. I try to be off the beach by 10:00 AM, and return abut 5:00 for an evening swim.
Lonnie had his first experience trying to cash a $100 bill. Anything over a $20 requires ID, a signature, a local address and a manager’s OK! They are looking for drug money being laundered through Panama.
We went to the big market in El Valle on Sunday. I picked up my big basket I had on Layaway (abono), and ordered 10 more.
In the evening we had big dinner at our local favorite, Don Chacho’s. In the super market we met a couple from Dubuque who were glad to be away form the minus35 degree chill factor!
We spent a day at Gamboa in the national park. The hotel sponsored tours were booked, and were very expensive. We ended up doing the Zoo for $1 for each adult. We saw the monkeys the grandkids were looking for. It was good. We saw their national eagle. A high light was seeing the leaf cutter ants moving pieces of leaves to their home for growing fungi to eat. They had worn trails in on the ground.
Every day we have swum in the ocean, most days the surf has been great. We have had some great restaurant meals, and some great meals at Papa John’s. I prepare my fruit smoothies, fish just purchased at the coop, corn or yucca tortillas, and green tea.
I have included pictures of a dinner party I mentioned recently, our sofa delivered with the wrong stain and design, and the almost finished back yard.
End of Dispatch #19
Thursday Afternoon, January 24, 2008
Just a few pictures:
Getting ready for the surf lesson at the surf instructor's house on the beach in San Carlos.
Walking through the zoo.
Jayne and Stacial posing in the zoo.
End of Dispatch #20
Wednesday Afternoon, January
Stacia and family left for Seattle on Monday afternoon. We are really missing them. We had a great ten days, everything we had hoped for. From a family point of view, we had no major squabbles, which is a big deal. Jayne and I enjoyed watching the kids and grandkids enjoy themselves, and come to appreciate this part of the world we have chosen to live in for half the year.
The grandkids really enjoyed the waves on the beach near the villa. We didn’t need to go anywhere else for bigger waves. Even with the surf lessons, I think they enjoyed the boogie boarding as much as the surfing. For surfing one needs waves that break just right. There were surfers just up the beach, but we enjoyed riding the waves with our various boogie boards.
We had settled into a simple schedule, not trying to go anywhere very far away. We would go to the beach for a swim and/or riding the early morning waves. We would hang out until the low tide, which signaled the beginning of the good waves period of up to two hours. Then we would have a breakfast at Papa John’s (me) of red snapper, corvina or langastinos, with liquados, corn or yucca tortillas, and possibly fried plantains or bananas. If the low tied was around noon, as it was by the end of their stay, we would go back out after breakfast to ride the waves.
We ran some errands in the afternoon; shopping, checking email. On two occasions we stopped at our local Chinese restaurant, Los Palmas. They seem to understand my and Stacia’s wheat and gluten allergy and prepare our choices with rice noodles and no soy sauce. A half order feeds one for two meals, so there were plenty of leftovers.
We also had a meal at the local fast food restaurant, Pio Pio. It is fast food slow, and is very good. We discovered they have some of the best ice cream we have ever tasted. Very light, not too much fat feel. It is difficult to describe.
After our evening return to the beach for some waves, we would splash around in the pool and then either have a dinner or a snack at the villa, where Stacia and family stayed. Our final activity for several evenings was playing poker, or versions of it. Lonnie knows all the hands, so he taught us to play. It was great fun.
The highlights for the ten days were many. Just getting settled in and enjoying the location was the best part. We created a memory that will last us forever, and I hope (and believe) that the kids and grandkids will feel the same way when they think of their first trip to Panama.
End of Dispatch 21
Monday Afternoon, February 5, 2008
Karen Kalish left this morning after a long weekend. We enjoyed her visit.
Karen is one of the most active people one could ever meet. She doesn’t stay still for very long. A lot of her traveling is of the “three cities in four days” variety, a thought which makes me tired. Our way of seeing a country is to stay in one place and slowly move around to other places, getting to know the people and the places. Karen likes to move much more quickly.
We compromised. After we picked her up from the airport on Thursday afternoon, we drove to the Mira Flores Locks. These are part of the Panama Canal and have displays and movies. Karen was surprisingly engrossed by the scale of the canal. Each time we would pass over the Balboa bridge, she would remark on the canal’s grandeur. It is impressive, and the displays are very informative.
We began the day with a swim, walk, and or breakfast at Papa John’s or, in one case, Pio Pio.
On Friday, we drove to El Valle, a town I have described previously. It is a town in the crater of a long extinct volcano and has a daily crafts and produce market. Karen found some Mole gifts made by an Indian group.
On Saturday we drove in to near the locks, on the outskirts of Panama City, to Soberiana Park. We went for a hike on the Pipe Line Trail. This is a service trail for an oil pipeline, built in anticipation of possible oil shipping interrupted by damage to the canal during World War II. (And we didn’t know the war was coming?) We saw more of those impressive leaf cutter ants. An artist was trying for pictures of them carrying miniature country flags which she had soaked in sugar water to encourage them to pick them up and carry them back to the nest. One picked up Saudi Arabia as I watched. She began to snap away. I got some great movies I would like to share.
We also saw some Coatamundis crossing the trail, heard many birds and saw a Blue Morpheus butterfly. Iridescent Blue and beautiful. The trail is in the midst of a true jungle, with amazing vegetation. The trail give one enough space to step back and actually see it.
Saturday night we ate Chinese at Las Palmas in Gorgona for $12.50. Later we saw a local parade, part of the Carnival Celebration. It seems to be part Thanksgiving: everyone goes to their home town to celebrate and party. There was a Mardi Gras type parade. The parade had many more people than Gorgona has residents. I would say 500. It had a few floats of Mary, baby Jesus, and another figure. They had erected several lighted paper arches over the route, and had a band accompaniment. They would stop to regroup every 100 feet or so. The floats had generators and were carried by men. I think they needed a rest.
The parade in Panama City was on television. There was another one in Panama on Sunday.
On Sunday, we met a pre-ordered car and driver for a three hour tour of Panama City. It was a great tour, guided by a former police captain. The streets were nearly empty because everyone had gone somewhere for Carnival. The highway (the Interamericana) had been backed up the night before, and was very busy on Sunday. We saw where the new American Consulate was. It looks like a prison, and we were cautioned by the entry guard to not take a picture of it. We went to the metropolitan park, which is very close in to Panama. We toured the Canal Zone. Went to the end of the causeway, which is a rock bridge to an island which was created by dumping he debris hauled from digging the canal. It is filled with restaurants, and offers a great view back to the city. We stopped at the Artisans Market. The prices were not as good as El Valle, but they had some interesting masks, one of which Karen bought. We drove along Balboa, which borders the water, to the old city which was destroyed by the pirate Henry Morgan. There is only a limited view of an old fort. We then drove around some neighborhoods to see where the rich live and where some Jewish communities are.
We ended our tour and Karen checked into the the Marriott. We found an open Lebanese restaurant and had a pleasant meal and another interesting conversation. Jayne and I caught a cab back to our car, which we had parked at the Rey at Albrook. Karen caught her flight the next morning.
Tuesday Noon, February 5
We spent a relaxing day yesterday. The Holiday continues, so the beaches have more people than usual.
In the afternoon we went to Lynne and Bill’s home in Coronado for conversation and wine with them and some new friends. We joked about the quality of a boxed Merlot costing only $2.50 per liter. It was from Argentina actually quite good. Richard theorizes that once we acclimatize to Panama, we find the Merlot more tasty than weaker flavors. He also thinks everyone loves 10% of their body weight after they are here 6 months. We have not seen a scale, but he could be right.
After Bill and Lynne’s, Richard and Lise and Jayne and I went to dinner at the new chicken restaurant something like Todo al Carbon. They will have to compete with Don Chacho, which has been our favorite, but has continued to raise their prices to the point where a $10 meal is now $18 for two. Todo al Carbon has just been open 4 days, but was doing brisk business, and includes some excellent cooked vegetables I their chicken prices. Or meal of one half and one quarter chicken and two vegetable dishes and two limonadas was $11 and quite good.
We stopped to check email outside the Mail Boxes etc. We have a dying battery in our computer and parked outside using the wireless signal, so have limited time. Our daughter Sarah had written informing us of a recent, substantial decline in the health of my Mom. She had some blood work and had been referred to an oncologist. The tests diagnose a quick onset leukemia, so she is approaching the end. Mom and I have had numerous discussions about how she wants to handle the end of her life, and I am sure she will not want heroic measures.
I called Mom and chatted with her. Mom told me she had some medicine that would make her feel better, but that she wouldn’t get well. She put Stacia on the phone. Stacia had met her at the doctor’s appointment, and was settling Mom in her apartment. Stacia confirmed the diagnosis and told us (Jayne had rejoined me in the car after shopping) the situation. We don’t know how long she has. Doctors are not good at telling the patient the correct prediction, even when they have feel for it, which they probably don’t since the oncologist has never seen my Mom before and does not realize how vibrant she was a few weeks ago. Over Christmas she took a cruise of the Hawaiian Islands with here younger brother Richard. Every time she returns from a trip with him, she swears it is the last she will go on with him! He just isn’t active enough for her.
Well, we have to figure things out. I may need to go home to see her or bring her down here. I don’t think that would work, but the thought would put some joy in her.
Pictures: Karen at the Panama Canal, The Panama City skyline from Casco Viejo with Karen and John, and John, Jayne and Karen on our outing to El Valle.
End of Dispatch #22
Wednesday Evening, February 6, 2008
Just a few photos: one of the arches built in our small town of Gorgona in preparation for the parade. Leafcutter ants. Every green piece has an ant carrying it. Noriega's house. Why doesn't someone buy it?
End of Dispatach #23
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Karen Kalish, in response to my comments about her being a “three cities in four days” type of traveler writes:
absolutely untrue. I told you about taking my cousin to London for five days and Paris for five days.... and the trip I'm taking her on next summer where we stay in each city for three days...
just want to set the record straight! :-)
Monday, February 18, 2008
It has been 13 days since I made an entry. During that time I prepared for and went on a 5 day trip to Seattle to visit my Mom, and returned to Panama with daughter Sarah and her husband and three boys.
The trip to Seattle was as good as could be expected. I spent a little time with my Mom, limited by her lack of energy caused by the leukemia, and a lot of time with my brother and his wife who came to Seattle. I think I was with her during what will be some of her last lucid moments.
Last Summer I made a donation in her name to the Seattle Art Museum, a small plaque in the new outdoor sculpture garden that says “Carol Leet, lover of the arts.” We told her about it last Fall, but I had hoped she would see it. The thought of seeing he plaque gave her some energy. She was talking about taking some of her friends with her to see it in the Spring. That probably won’t happen. Her prognosis is for a few weeks to a few months. In her more lucid moments she talks about dying soon, as when she added Allen and me as signatories to her bank account, and even says she fears not dying soon enough.
One bright light that comes from all this darkness is the way in which our two daughters, Mom's oldest grandchildren, have done whatever was needed to help Mom. A parent could not ask for more
Seattle was its usual dark and rainy self during my brief visit. It has taken several days of Panama sunshine to get me feeling warm and happy again. It has even rained here three times this week, a very rare occurrence for February. The rain has been heavy and warm. We were at the beach for the last one, and had a walk home in the rain. It was quite pleasant.
We have settled into a routine that is similar to the one we had when our other daughter Stacia and her family were here. We spend a lot of time on the beach boogie boarding and walking. The boys and Sarah have been suffering through colds, but seem to be coming out of it. Paul is having some ear issues, which a local doctor confirmed Sarah’s diagnosis and treatment.
We have thrown in a few trips. We went to the Panama Canal and took a walk on the Pipeline Trail, and today we drove up to Altos to talk with our architect about plans for our lot. On the way back down we stopped to order shoes for the boys, made by a nearby leather craftsman.
We eat out at some of the same local restaurants, make a lot of fresh fruit juice smoothies, get take out at the Las Palmas Chinese restaurant, fix Red Snapper or Corvina fresh from the Gorgona Piscado Cooperativa. Everyone is having a good time, especially us as Grandparents. Being able to share an adventure with our children and grandchildren is absolutely fabulous.
I’ll attach a few pictures of our wonderfully talented and accomplished grandchildren doing things like going to the canal, eating at a favorite restaurant and looking at leaf cutter ants.
End of dispatch #24
Thursday Evening, February 21, 2008
We have had a busy few days.
Yesterday, we went to El Valle. We have been many times, but this was Sarah and family’s first visit. We had promoted it as the place to buy some souvenirs, as opposed to the expensive canal gift shop. Mason and Maverick had their money ready. Maverick, who will be five on the 28th, bought a racing car within a few minutes of arriving. He loves cars. I didn’t even know the crafts market had cars. Mason found a necklace with a simulated shark’s tooth carved from a local nut. They call it Panamanian Ivory. Ty bought a necklace with a small, but real, shark’s tooth.
I picked up the 10 handwoven baskets I had ordered a few weeks ago. I think I am becoming known in the market as the man who buys all the baskets. Later I found that they did fit in the beds, but not with their lids. The lids can now serve as addition al drawers for other storage areas.
There was hardly room in the cars for everyone. We are using two small Yaris vehicles for Sarah’s stay. It is less expensive than the big Toyota Land Cruiser, and gives us some flexibility. We simply have to caravan when all 7 are going somewhere together.
We ate lunch at a new restaurant a short walk from the market. All seven of us ate well for under $20. Mostly we had chicken or carne soup ( similar to sancocho, but with beef), with yucca or papa fritas, or fried plantains.
After lunch we found the small local zoo. It mixes various animals in cages, based on their not eating each other, I presume. They had one of the rare and endangered yellow frogs on display. Various zoos, including the St. Louis Zoo, are involved in a project to try to save the yellow frog. We saw many beautiful birds, including a white peacock, various hawks, and a variety of chickens! The zoo is in a wooded setting. It is run by a family, and is not lush, but the animals seem to be doing well. It is a fun visit.
The drive to and back from El Valle is suited for motorcycles which Paul used to design and race. He enjoyed the driving. It is a beautiful area, and is now connected to Altos, where we own a lot, by a new back road. The drive is less than 30 minutes. We look forward to trying it.
Today we went to watch the boys have a surfing lesson. We hired Flo, the same teacher Lonnie and Clay used. She is quite good. She had an assistant to help with the third student, and he was also good. He got the boys some long boards, which were easier to get up on. Even Maverick was able to get up on his board. The boys are going back tomorrow to practice.
We were all exhausted by the lessons and the time in the midday sun. We had one of our fish and liquado lunches, with tortillas and honey, and Jayne’s coleslaw. My liquado (Mexican for fruit smoothie) of the day is Sandia (watermelon) with papaya and banana and lots of ice is a big hit with the boys. Fruit shakes here are usually Batidos con leche or sin leche.
I spent an hour at the internet café this evening. I called my Mother’s brother Dick, and told him of her condition. He suspected as much. He said he had sent her a note with a clipping about him. He ran into a building while parking and made the front page of the local paper. He was not hurt.
I will attach some photos of the surfing lesson, the zoo visit and a beautiful bird or two.
End of Dispatch #25
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Monday Evening, February 25, 2008
We have had another great family time with Sarah and family in Panama. As with Stacia and family, the thing most family members wanted to do was play in the sand and the surf. We had some great breakfasts at Papa John’s and some great dinners and card games at Sarah and Paul’s.
The Chang-Leet kids are into some interesting card games. The biggest hit is Rat a Tat Cat, which is fun for all ages.
We stopped back to pick up the special order sandals for Ty, Mason and Maverick. They seemed to like them, especially Mason.
In the search for some souvenirs we drove into Cherera to a supermarket called Super X. It is similar to a target or K Mart. It has groceries, clothing, household goods, a restaurant, anything you could think of. Paul found some soccer outfits for each of the boys. On another outing they found great Panama baseball hats for just a few dollars.
Jayne and I spend a bit of time each day attending to matters back in the states, including real estate deals we are working on. This requires checking in with an internet connection. We have been checking in via Skype regarding my Mom’s condition.
We also continue to work on the details for the closing on our Villa. We have begun to wonder if the Home Owners Association will ever get its act together and take care of things like security, and are considering selling our villa. We love being near the beach and the town of Gorgona, so we would replace it with something in the area. We may buy some land and build what we want ourselves. We have found a good architect who is doing work for us for our lot in Altos del Maria. We have also found some good builders who I think could make sure the plans were implemented. It would be best if we were here to check, however.
A big surprise for me has been how handy the barbeque is on the terrazzo. I’ve never been a barbeque person, but Jayne was convinced that we needed one. Using the barbeque outdoors on the terrazzo keeps the house cool. Sarah has even been cooking gluten free cakes and cookies using the barbeque (we don’t have an oven indoors, only a stove top). She turns two burners on low and cooks the cake or cookies for about twice as long as the package calls for. They have been great treats, especially for those of us who cannot go to a bakery or Panaderia and purchase bread or cookies.
Tomorrow is Sarah and family’s last full day here. We plan to hit the beach, have some fruit smoothies and fish, and hit the beach some more. The low tide is about 1:00 PM, so we will be looking for good waves in the heat of the day, but one does what one has to do.
Thursday evening, February 28, 2008
Today is grandson Maverick’s birthday. He is 5 and he arrived back in Seattle early this morning or late last night. We are missing him and his two brothers and his parents.
We took the Chang Leet Family to the airport yesterday. It is a good two hour drive, with second half through heavy city traffic. We need to schedule pit stops. The boys had to stop to pee by the side of the road. This is hardly shocking: you see it al the time. It is hot. One drinks a lot of fluids, and there are no easily accessible bathrooms. I’m not sure how women handle the situation!
We tried to check email at the Riande hotel near the airport, but their system was down. We ate a quick lunch and drove back to Coronado where we spent a few hours on the internet, trying to send some signed contracts for some land we are selling. The bandwidth for sending is not great here. I had to send each page of the contract and disclosure form separately.
There was an expat dinner almost across the street. We attended and saw some old friends, including Linne and Bill, and Janette McDonald (how is that for a name?), and others. We met two women from Germany who live near us in Gorgona and bring their families down from New York each winter. I’m told that the Canadians coming to Panama far outnumber the Americans. My experience supports that.
Today we began our move into our villa. We will sleep here for the first time tonight. We have been despairing of the developer’s lack of helpfulness, and the Home Owners’ Association’s disorganization, but we really do like the concept, and think things will come together to make this a pleasant place to use as a winter base, and profitable rental for when we are not here.
I need to move a few more things over from our rental house and check the email at the local internet café, which someone said looked like Boca Ghetto, or some such. The owner is quite entrepreneurial. He just doubled his space, and is selling quite a list of Hellados (ice cream) and other deserts. Many of the homes seem quite simple, but they are generally clean and well organized. The café is frequented mostly by local kids who play internet games and chat with friends or would be friends. I don’t see them doing internet research, but they certainly know their way around a computer.
I’ll enclose some photos of the Chang Leets during their visit.
End of Dispatch #26
Saturday Evening, March 1, 2008
Shortly after I sent the last dispatch I received word that my Mother had died. I had visited her two weeks ago, and shared some of her last lucid moments.
I think we should all be as lucky as she was. She lived to be 92, and was active until the very end. She took a major trip over Christmas, and had been to South Africa very recently. (She donated a picture of Cape Town to Judson park. It hangs outside her room for everyone to enjoy) One of her major complaints was that there weren’t any travel companions left who could keep up with her.
We had clear notice that she did not have long, and her most important loved ones were able to be with her while she was lucid. Our daughters Stacia and Sarah took turns helping her. My brother Allen (and his wife Cindy) was able to spend some time with her. Allen's four children were all able to fly in and be with her for a few days each. Allen and Sarah were with her until an hour before she died. Stacia had handled admirably the very difficult past two weeks at the nursing home and with all the other grandchildren visiting. She had been with her recently and was scheduled to visit the next day. I know she felt loved, and did not suffer unnecessarily. Jayne and I had made plans to leave Panama early to hopefully get back in time, but that was not to be. I was glad I had gone back and had time with Mom when I did!
She died with a will in place and clear instructions regarding what to do with her furniture and other assets. She had identified and prepaid for the funeral home. She has the music she wanted at her service listed on a note in her top drawer.
My Mother and I were alike in many ways, which created major conflict for us over our lifetimes. The teenage years were rough. College was a disaster. When our children became old enough to benefit from her teaching and camp counseling, she became involved and our relationship began a long, slow improvement. About 15 years ago the relationship was good enough that she and Dad relocated to the Seattle area. She was a fixture, along with her jello salad, at almost all Leet family gatherings in Seattle. She showed great interest in her great grandchildren (5) in the Seattle area, and the two newest ones in New York. She was fond of trying to buy just the right gift to foment intellectual growth. She had been helping the great grandchildren with music and dance lessons. One of them, Clayton, came to be with her not long before she died and played the piano for her. She told me how much that pleased her.
A few years ago we began to discuss how she wanted her estate to be divided. She put those thoughts together in her will. She had considered giving the grandchildren gifts before she died, so that she could enjoy it. I encouraged her in this, but the complexity of how to get the grandchildren at their various levels of age and responsibility to use the money wisely (from her point of view), caused her to hesitate. She then had a stroke, and we dropped the discussions. She did begin to do more with the great grandchildren who could benefit from educational or music support. I know that gave her a great deal of pleasure.
It was her hope that the grandkids would invest the money: either an asset that would fund their retirements (she understood that pensions such as she and Dad retired on were a thing of the past) or in education that would improve their careers and lives. She was a big believer in education. She went back to school for a Masters in her 40’s and had a career in special education. Allen and I sometimes thought that she used up a lot of her patience with the special education kids! She was one of the early housewives to return to the workforce in a serious way.
My one regret is that Mom was not able to see the Plaque in her name at the Seattle Art Museum sculpture park. She was aware of it, and planned to take her friends to see it.
We had thought about bringing her down to experience Panama. I know she would have loved it, but even before the Leukemia she was a little too frail for such a venture. I know she enjoyed receiving this journal. Mom’s efforts to get involved with email were overwhelmed by the junk mail that bombarded her. Stacia made prints of the dispatches and sent them to her.
Travel was one of her loves, and it is certainly one I, and many of her descendants, share. Her mother and father had been adventurous enough to settle in the post Oklahoma land rush territory, but never ventured very far thereafter. Mom started the travel tradition for the Leets.
Today Jayne and I, in the spirit of Carol Leet, went to an art fair in Penonome. We bought two colorful, very Panamanian oil paintings to hang in our villa.
I’ll attach photos of the pictures for everyone’s enjoyment.
End of Dispatch #27
Thursday Evening, March 6, 2008
I would like to thank each of you who had special thoughts about my Mother’s death, and I appreciate the thoughtful comments I received. Thus far in my life, the deaths have occurred in a natural sort of way. There is no real pain in saying goodbye to a parent who has lived a full life, and with whom one has been able to establish a good relationship, with no “woulda, coulda, shoulda” as my friend and recent Panama visitor Karen Kalish commented. Others of you have experienced death outside the natural order, the death of a child or partner long before they had lived out their full span of years. That would create a sadness of epic proportions, and I feel for those of you who have experienced this. As a parent and grandparent I would willingly die before seeing one of my children or grandchildren die.
We have been in our usual morning schedule: swim/walk, prepare food, eat breakfast. My morning swims have been getting longer as my shoulder has healed from rotator cuff surgery. A recent swim was probably 4 or more miles. The water was choppy in close to shore, so I swam out further than usual. There were also large swells which made it impossible for me to locate Jayne on the beach so we could meet and walk back, which is one of our routines. She couldn’t find me either. As a result while I had my long swim, she was worrying that I had been eaten by a shark. I’ve told her that it is as good a way to go as any, and I would die happy. Fortunately, she didn’t have the phone or the key to the villa, so she couldn’t call for help, as she was inclined to do. We have made some adjustments in our routine, so that we are each clear where we are to meet. Next year I will bring down a colorful waterpolo cap to wear while swimming. I find the latex caps too tight.
The balance of our daylight hours have been spent conducting business over the internet and searching for some more near-the-beach property. We would like to find piece of land that would be good for building a home, and a larger piece that would be suitable for doing a small development.
We have done a good bit of research and thinking over the years, concerning overseas investments, and we think the factors for investment and ownership are a lot more favorable in Panama than in most countries, including the US.
A few weeks ago we met a couple, Dick and Lise Burkart. He is a former economist and currently a builder in nearby Coronado. He has written a book: Panama – Your Best Value for Offshore Living, subtitled “Enhance your Lifestyle in a low cost tropical country and save 75% of your expected retirement budget.” Dick has gone through the same thought process we went through, but has put it in a book. He is promoting Panama as a retirement destination, but, more importantly, he is examining the rational for taking a hard look at the sad state of retirement in the US and arguing for you to take the rest of your life in your own hands and make it something you will love.
Dick and Lise initially relocated from the New Jersey to Florida. They then relocated to Phuket, Thailand and finally landed, after a brief stay in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, in Panama, a mile or so from where we own our villa. Our thought process was similar to that explored in Richard’s book. We also explored the Southern USA, especially for real estate investing, as well as Costa Rica, Mexico, and finally Panama.
Panama or some other country makes sense for so many people for so many reasons. It would take a book to tell them all!
If you have reached the often touted magic $1,000,000 in asset value in excess of home equity, or are short of it, one can have more quality of life for less in Panama. If you can think “outside the box” and examine possibilities that most cannot, take a look at this book. It applies to you whether you are an independent billionaire, a retiree on a minimum level of social security, or someone working toward a retirement in between these extremes.
I don’t know where you can buy it, but you can find out by visiting http://www.panamamundo.com/. You may be able to download the book. Mention my name. I don’t know what it will get you, but I am sure Richard will mention you to me when I see him next.
We were viewing property today, escorted by a retired CFL football player turned real estate agent from Montreal. Even though he is new to real estate, his partner is able to stay at home with their 17 month old baby, something they couldn’t do in Minnesota. Panama is also a great country for pre-retirement families, for a thousand reasons. Read the book!
I have pictures of Jayne exploring for shells on a beach devoid of people, a view lot we looked at today, and a cemetery in Gorgona. We always look at a cemetery in the countries we visit. They say a lot about the culture.
End of Dispatch 28
Wednesday Afternoon, March 19, 2008
We are sitting in row 17 of Continental flight 878, heading to Houston. We are excited about seeing the kids again, and resigned to attending to the things we need to take care of, but we could have put the departure from Panama off for several months. We hear it is raining in Seattle. With the recent time change, the sun will be out until after 6, but you can’t see it when it is raining.
The last two weeks, during which I have not written in my journal, went by very fast. I did keep notes in my Daytimer (I haven’t graduated to anything electronic for note taking yet).
We spent a lot of time looking for some land or other real estate to buy. We found some interesting pieces, but have not made a deal yet. I have some deals in the US that I could do, but they are becoming very difficult. The banks are requiring very different terms from a year ago. I fear that the restrictions will cause the US to sink deeper into a recession, or even a depression. We noticed that there seem to be more Canadians, Europeans and South Americans, and fewer Americans, coming to Panama. The US real estate market is slowing down the ability of Americans to invest elsewhere, while the Canadian dollar and the Euro are strong. To me that makes Panama even more attractive.
We offered on two to be built duplexes near the beach, but the builder had increased his price to his after construction price, so we passed. We are working on a nie piece of land near the Rio Mar resort. It is a large piece (1.6 hectares, or about 4 acres), and requires a substantial commitment from us. We have found that financing for purchases are not easy to get in Panama, so many deals are all cash. The seller, an American who lives in Acupulco, has indicated that he will work with me. A Canadian couple indicated that they would like to invest with us, if they can get their condo sold in Canada.
We took that same couple, Bill and Lyne, to see our lot in Altos. They had arranged to exchange their Yaris for a small 4 wheel drive vehicle, and were interested in taking the back road from Altos to El Valle. The first part of the 45 minute trip was on road that had recently been leveled by Melo, the developer of Altos. It was easy, but the road became progressively rougher. The engine of the vehicle was a small gas engine, and we barely made it up some of the hills. Near the summit we reached to point of no return and continued down the treacherous road. I was too terrified to think of taking pictures. When the road became tamer, it occurred to me to take some. The road took us through some mountain farms, with crops on very steep hills. Getting the crops to market must surely have been a challenge.
Jayne had hoped that the Altos to El Valle road would make going to the market in El Valle easy, and thus make living in Altos part of the year more attractive. We are continuing to develop plans to build a casita on the Altos lot. We will sell the lot with the plans, or build the casita and then sell or try using it for some of our time in Panama.
We have been working with a Panamanian architect named Cesar Ituralde. The plans hve gone through a few iterations, and last week we went into Panama (City) to look at tiles, fixtures, and other materials. We like the bright colors and interesting textures. The casita has about 50% outdoor space, some covered. It will be an exciting house. The process of designing and the prospect of building are both very exciting.
Our trip into the city also involved a visit to our immigration attorney. He failed get us our temporary resident visas, so Jayne had overstayed here 90 tourist visa. I had been back to Seattle for Mom’s illness, so I had a new 90 day clock.
The attorney was supposed to get Jayne an extension of her tourist visa, but instead paid a fine for overstaying. Unfortunately, he paid it a day early, so he had to pay it again. The is resulted in another visit to his office. After one pays the fine, one has 8 days to leave the country. If we had showed up at the airport without paying the fine, Jayne would have had to go to downtown Panama to pay the $25 fine, and probably would have missed the flight. We are hoping that the admission of this transgression will not show on her record and create problems for coming back into Panama
While we were in the city, we went to two movies. We are movie goers, but had not had the opportunity while in Panama. We paid $4 each and splurged on a large coke and large popcorn for another $2. We saw Juego de Poder, or some such title, which should translate to the game of power. It was Charie Wilson’s War, which we enjoyed and though very instructive for the mess we are in in Afghanistan. The other movie was the Bucket List, which was a predictable, but interesting examination of some of the issues of dying, particularly relevant with my Mother’s recent death.
When we arrive back in Seattle, we will need to finnish sorting out my Mom’s things. The heavy lifting was done by Stacia and Sarah. We have scheduled a service for April 13. I don’t know who is coming in besides my brother Allen. All the grandkids flew in and saw Mom as she was declining. That was the important time.
From Panama we have been attending to various business items in Washington. One items that came up was a break in our sewer line. Fortunately I was able to reach our plumber on Skype and arrange for him to fix it. We have had two sales contracts negotiated over the internet, and have had some lengthy discussions with the bank and the seller of some property we would like to develop near Cashmere. In addition we have been working on the final disposition of our apartment that was damaged by Katrina. We had to go to the American embassy to have some loan documents notarized for a property in Huntsville. It is possible to do quite a lot while out of the country.
The trip to the Embassy was interesting. The compound looks like a prison. The security is heavy. One hands over their cell phones, cameras, and computers on their way in. You get a number, though you may not need one. I had only to go to the cashier, tell them what I needed notarized, and pay the fee: $96 for witnessing 4 signatures. We then took the documents to DHL for the $56 two day trip to Huntsville. Outside the embassy there are people under tents with computers providing various services.
We recently completed the process of getting our checking account opened. We also now have completion on the deeds for our two properties. Or so we are told, we haven’t actually seen them.
The process for our Costa Grande villa includes having the Homeowners Association take over responsibility for many items. As part of that there will be a HOA meeting in a few weeks. We wanted the meeting to be while we were around, but the developer has managed to schedule to meeting at a time when many of us who were raising issues will not be in country to attend. We have given our proxies to another owner. To include us and the others we had a poolside pre-meeting last Saturday evening. We hashed out most of the issues. After the meeting we felt much better about getting things straightened out. Our issues include the need for a security fence and gate and improved maintenance.
As our time dwindled before departure, we worked hard to take care of the important things. One of the things we wanted to have done was have a mural painted on our living room wall by a local artist. We had purchased a lively painting a few weeks ago by an artist participating in the Penonome art show. His name is Edwin Villareal Espinosa. He came back to us after I had sent him a photo of a mural we liked. He spent two days creating a mural. We are very happy with it. The mural was the center of attention for the complex while it was being created. I’ll attach a
copy.
Thursday, November 29, 2007
This was our second evening in Panama. We went to a buffet at the new, old landmark in Gorgona called La Ruina, the ruins. It is a very old and storied building that has been renovated by an ex-serviceman and his Panamanian wife: Frank and Delcia. They have done an excellent job. The place has a lot of character and is becoming well known. On the weekends a musician comes and plays. They don’t hire him. He just likes to play.
La Ruina is about two blocks from the house we are renting, both of which are near the famous Gorgona fish market where the restaurants come for their fish.
Last evening we went to the monthly expat gathering at Rincon del Chef. It was also a nice gathering, though much larger, probably a hundred people.
At both gatherings we met very interesting people. One couple drove down to Panama from Cincinatti. We met several Canadians. There was a swiss couple. We even met a native born Panamanian ! Several people have retired from the military or canal support services. Some lived in Gorgona only on weekends until they retired, as the owners of the house we are renting.
One man was beginning an import business in artificial thatched roofs. Others are building spec houses. There are many economic opportunities here. One can own a business, but they want Panamanians to do the work, so you better have some workers on your payroll.
We came down one day early for the expat dinner. We had hopes of making some contacts for appliance purchases, tips on getting around, architects and other services we will need. Everyone was more than willing to share their experiences with us. Without exception, they all had interesting stories and a very positive outlook on Panama.
Our first evening, after we landed, we went for a walk. Our Aparthotel is in the heart of PC in a very busy area, which includes a large Casino. There are many resaurants nearby. We stopped at a gelato parlor we had found last year and had some good gelato. The best we’ve had is to be found in Vienna, near the Opera House. After having our desert first, we went to a vegetarian restaurant run by a Chinese family. The Chinese have been in Panama since the 1860’s when the initial efforts for a canal were begun by the French. I shared my Spanish version of my no gluten statement, and the host was very helpful. I could eat most things. I buought a plate of 6 different items and furit juice (maracuya) for $2.75. Quite the healthy bargain.
Yesterday morning we had breakfast at Manolos, near the hotel. Always good. Then we repacked and drove out. We still haven’t been able to get over the old Bridge of the America’s, but the new bridge works just fine, and we get to drive by the locks.
Our non-moving, non-eating and non-sleeping moments have been spent checking email and working with our bank and lawyer to try to complete the purchase of our villa. I has been a several month process, with many delays for un-understandable reasons, but everyone is always very pleasant. Even if you just had a disappointing conversation with someone 5 minutes ago, the first sentenced in the new conversation is something like “Buenos Dios. Como esta?” “Muy bien. Gracias. Y usted.” etc We are usually assured that things are moving along, and not to worry. (it won’t do any good, anyway. Things have their own pace here. Pushing does not do much good. Showing up does definitely help. I think this is a very healthy change for gringos. We meet or hear about many gringos who have left high stress jobs in New York, of the good life here. They are still self starters, with big dreams, but the pace is much more enjoyable.)
Our house we are renting while we await the completion of our villa does not have internet, though this is available, at least in nearby San Carlos. We drive to San Carlos to the Mail Boxes Etc. It has a new owner since we were last here. The previous owner developed a cancer condition and went home to Montreal to recover. It is in the shopping center with the El Rey 24 hour grocery store that has almost anything one could need. No rice crackers, but plenty of rice. I bought a several day supply of basic food last night and was surprised at the low cost of $67. One can pay with credit or cash, though bills larger than 20’s require a manager’s approval. A lot of counterfeit activity, apparently.
One of our conversations this evening was with a woman who finds Altos too slow. Rachel, who is a few years older than we are, goes into PC 3 or 4 times each week. Like me, she is a public transportation fan. There is a bus along every few minutes, and for $2 you can get to the Allbrook mall, where you can grab a $2 taxi to anywhere in PC. Our few minutes of driving in PC after picking up the rental car have convinced us anew that we don’t want to drive in PC unless we have to. Driving in any foreign city is incredibly stressful. Why do it, when for less money, someone else will take you where you want to go?
I think we have found a place to watch the Mizzou-Oklahoma football game on Saturday. The owner of Mary’s restaurant is from Rolla, and I was inquiring after his phone number to see if he was going to carry the game, and came across another serious football fan who will have it in his home. His name is Elier, and he has been doing some construction inspection work for us on our vila.
Things here in Panama are much as we remembered them. We want to see if we can handle being away from children and grandchildren for this extended period. We miss them already, but know they are growing well, and will enjoy us when we see them again. Stacia and her family (husband Lonnie and two children Clay and Lilly) will be coming down in January. Sarah and her family (husband Paul and three boys: Ty, Mason, and Maverick) will join us in February. As I see the myriad differences I think about how the grandchildren will react to them.
The experience of the differences is what makes travel exciting. It is not the great sights, but the thinking and the culture that created those sites and the small daily experiences, that causes us to see the world in new ways. This is when I fee most alive. This is especially so since a major motivation for me is to get away from the dark of the Seattle winters. Here I have light and experiences that cause me to feel alive, younger, and excited. Seeing this in me is major joy for Jayne.
You may know that we travel fairly simply, avoiding four star experiences because we are cheap, and have had to struggle for what we have, and because those stars separate one from the true travel experience. We are too old to back pack and hostel our way, but we try to keep it real.
It is late. I’ll try to attach some suitable photos. More later.
Sunday Night, December 2, 2007
I should state clearly that just because you are receiving this, you do not need to read every word. I write this primarily for myself. The recording and expression helps me to understand my experience and appreciate its uniqueness. I do want to share my excitement with anyone who will listen, but I’m really talking to myself.
This is a first draft, with almost no correction. I believe firmly that “anything worth doing is worth doing poorly!” Most people fail to even start their great projects, often because they want them to be perfect.
It is actually about three AM. I have awakened because of the pain in my shoulder. I had rotator cuff surgery just over two weeks ago. It is healing well, and I am faithfully doing my rehab exercises, which accounts for the pain.
It may be a little difficult to get back to sleep. A few of the neighborhood guard dogs have begun to bark non-stop. I should get some earplugs. I normally travel with them, but can’t locate them now. I remember my first night time dog experience in 1991 in Cuernevaca, Mexico. We were staying with friends. There was a pack of dogs that circled the neighborhood, baying as they went, all night long! It was quite a racket. In this climate there are either no windows, or they are open almost all the time, especially at night, so the noise is very present.
Dogs and fences and bars and locks are a necessary fact of life. We feel safe wherever we go, and we do walk in the neighborhoods after dark, but there is such a disparity between the haves and the have nots that theft is inevitable. Even with this disparity, I think there is a feeling of rising prosperity for everyone in Panama. The Gringo is not disparaged because we have money. I think it is understood that the flow of this money benefits everyone.
Speaking of noise, last night was Sabado, Saturday. Workers are generally paid every two weeks, so the cantina has a fiesta to help them spend their money. The local cantina is just few blocks from here. The advent of powerful woofers makes for a powerful thumping. The earplugs would solve this easily.
Next to the cantina is a large futbol (soccer) field. There were games there today for all ages, going continuously, even during the heat, and, I’m not sure, but possibly during the deluge. We see the players walking home, and they look like I looked after a day of playing Rugby in St. Louis. There is no feeling quite like it, and I am happy for them. I am anticipating our grandkids seeing the local kids play soccer, and even possibly kicking the ball around with them. There shouldn’t be any language barrier with a soccer ball.
We have been to our nearly completed villa three times, and have met two of our neighboring owners. Our conversation with them and others involves discussions of where to buy appliances. There are many choices, and everyone has an opinion.
As with any construction there are items that need to be corrected. We have experienced the same thing in the US, though there is definitely a Panamanian flavor to the way construction is done. They tend to do something and then go back and fix it. For instance wiring is put into a channel that is carved into the wall, often after the stucco has been applied, thus necessitating skillful repair work. All the construction is cinder block and concrete. Prices for these items are already going up, and that part of the work on the new canal has not even begun.
Today we stayed in the neighborhood. I took a morning walk down to the local fish cooperative. It was beginning to get warm about 10:00 and the work was done for the day. A few trucks were still loaded and waiting to transport their fish cargo. The coop has a contract for export, so that is where the first fish go. Additional fish is sold to restaurants and individuals.
I walked on the beach to where I could see our villa complex, and decided to avoid the heat by heading up to the villas. I examined our project and met Mota. He was originally from Israel, and most recently from Miami. He had gone to the UW at one point. He owns three units and some land in Altos, so we discussed real estate investing in Panama. He has management software product that produces his money for investments. His villa is or weekend use. He lives in PC, or Panama as it is called.
We stopped in to see the owner of a small motel where we stayed when we first came t Panama. Anna is the owner. She is quite the entrepreneur. She has a cleaning products manufacturing business called ProLido. It is out by the highway. She distributes her products all over Panama through grocery stores etc. She and her husband live in Casco Viejo, or the old city. She was quite happy to see us and made us promise to call her when we are finished with our residential visa work on Tuesday. She taught me to say “Estoy contiendo de vello de Nuevo.” I am happy to see you again. She wants to learn more English and help us learn more Spanish.
We made an afternoon stop at the villas. We met a mother and daughter, both named Sanya. The daughter and her fiancé from Canada (whom she met while they were both students at Arizona State) have each bought a villa. One is next to ours, the other across the walkway. They plan to rent them out for about $1500 per month and have renters already. This is good news for us, as we will be renting ours out also, when we are not here. The father/husband has a handyman business, and they promised to give us a good price. We are also discussing creating a group to get a good cable TV deal.
Saturday night we watched the Mizzou-Oklahoma game in Altos del Maria. A man we have been using for some construction oversight, Elier, invited us for the game. He has a cable service out of Puerto Rico which, though it may be technically illegal, had all the major US channels, as well as many Spanish channels. He is an engineer who came to the US when he was 17.
The game did not start until 8:00, so we felt we had to start down the mountain at half time. We will always remember the terrific 2 point conversion Mizzou made, and did not have to suffer through their frustration in the second half. I had to call Elier in the morning to get the score and the details. There is no local English newspaper on the weekends, and I haven’t seen a USA Today since the airport. I don’t miss it, though I would still pick up my Sunday New York Times if I had a chance.
While we were up in Altos we visited our lot. We still love it. The view is terrific. The weather great. Our plan is to build a small casita, similar to one we stayed at when we first visited. We will live in that while we design and build our house and pool. We have really learned that you need to be here to supervise construction, if you want it done right.
We had a pleasant conversation about such issues with Andy and Sue, Montrealers who stayed in the cabin next door when we first visted, and who just completed their first winter stay in their new house. Their lot is separated from ours by one vacant lot and a Melo spec house, so their conditions are very similar to ours. We like what they have created, and will probably do something very similar. They have a master suite, and one guest bedroom and bath. The rest of the space is very open, with a living area and kitchen that look out onto the Picachu view, and is connected to an office which they share. They each have a lap top. The ceilings are very high, with several powerful fans. They do have three split a/c units which they ran during the rainy season. Elier had managed to create enough circulation that he did not need to have a/c. I’d like to do that if possible. Even on warm nights, we turn off our a/c after cooing off the bedroom.
We sat on Andy and Sue’s porch and discussed their experience with their big move for a few hours. They are missing their family, but are getting them to visit, and have plans to surprise them with a birthday drop in. They have no regrets with making the year round move and are very happy.
Andy and Sue have some very nice built in wood furniture. The closets have crossed slats to allow for air circulation. They have a bed with storage drawers, much like we had made in Seattle, and like Sanya and her fiancé had made. The price here seems to be about 1/6. There are many possibilities for excellent woodworking furniture.
We have eaten at some of our old favorite restaurants, like Don Chaco’s where we get a whole chicken for $6 and some fruit Batidos and steamed vegetables. We discovered a Chinese restaurant called Las Palmas in Gorgona.
My shoulder pain has subsided and the dogs are taking a break, probably so the roosters can begin crowing without interference. I’m going back to bed.
Tuesday Night, December 4, 2007
Two busy days have passed, mostly devoted to business, but we had fun.
Yesterday was our last day to name an exchange property for our property we sold in Gulfport. I spent most of the day on line trying to find an acceptable back up property. I have a contract on some property in Cashmere, but like everything, there are some issues to be solved, so I needed to have another project in case Cashmere does not come together. I think I found one.
We took breaks during the day to shop and to go to lunch. We met another expat Canadian couple: Clifford and Debbie. Clifford first discovered Panama when he ran away from home at the age of 13. He as spent most of his time since in Bristish Columbia as an undertaker. He is quite a character.
Every day we meet a few interesting couples who live in the area. Some we exchange email and phone numbers with. Others we just count on running into them again.
Threre is another expat function of some kind tomorrow morning. This one for the Playa (beach) community.
We arose quite early this morning for a drive to Panama (city). On our way to our attorney’s office we managed to get quite lost. Our plan was to drive in over the Balboa bridge, but we ended up coming in over the Avenue of the Americas bridge, and could not find our way to the Aldbrook mall. We eventually go to a Reys grocery store in the area of the mall, and took a cab for $2 to Carlos’s office.
We had scheduled the day to appear for our Pensionado visa. We spent a few hours at Migration and got everything done. We were number 70 in line, when the counter read 20, but we had a meeting before the counter reached 24. Certain persons get in line early and money is exchanged. Beyond that I don’t know how it works. We had spent much time getting all our documents in order. This included having our original wedding certificate apostilled by the state of Oklahoma. This was a new process for me. Also, we had driven to Olympia in November to have the state apostile our lack of criminal records. We had multiple passport type photos taken at Costco, with suitable coat and tie!
There were hundreds of people in various lines. People want to come to Panama. Immigration has slowed a bit from the US (probably because of the real estate issues), but has picked up from Canada and Venezuela. Everyone is breathing a sigh of relief over the failure of the Chavez initiative.
We also met with the attorney and a representative of Altos to take another step toward finalizing our lot purchase. We are getting there, but things do take time.
We had lunch at the Vegetarian restaurant we found on our first evening I Panama. Then we had Gelato.
We took a cab back to our car, and followed the driver to Aldbrook mall. It is quite something. We did not see many Americans, but were amazed at the high prices, which, presumably, Panamanians can afford. One can see a movie there for $4 or less. Beowulf is playing.
I bought a sony version of an MP3 player to download music and talk to listen to in the evening. Our TV fair is almost all Spanish, and one needs a rest sometimes. We are near the beach and have almost no FM radio reception. We plan on catching our favorite NPR shows and possibly a course or two.
We had a simple dinner and headed back. This was not easy, but we got directions on cutting through the Clayton neighborhood from a Panamanian MP type in military dress. This was the area the generals and majors used to live in. It is very nice. Driving back, the curves seem sharper in the dark, says Jayne. She is doing all the driving while my shoulder continues to heal.
We stopped for gas and paid $3.36 for 91 octane.
I’ll send this off with photos.
Comments and/or questions are welcome.
John
Thursday Evening, December 6
On Wednedsay we slept in, exhausted from our long day in Panama. I explored the beach to the right (is it West) of the point near the fish coop. It has much bigger waves, and a fish restaurant at the far end of the beach, just before the river separating Gorgona from Coronado. Just next to the restaurant is a very nice home which a couple we met last week has lived in for 20 years. They seem young to have been there that long, but I guess they got lucky early.
After a quick breakfast we went to a gathering of the beach community, mostly from the Coronado area. They had a presentation by to representative of two Kiwanis clubs in Panama. They wanted this Playa group to become a Kiwanis club because it is already going a great deal to help children in the area. A group of Mah Jong players within the group have given over a thousand dollars to buy uniforms for children. Without a uniform a child cannot go to school. Other members of the group support a local orphanage, which houses many children who’s parents simply cannot support them. Others support efforts to enable these parents to cope and take back their children. The group voted to not join Kiwanis at this time because they do not want any of their money going to any administrative overhead.
After the meeting we spent most of the afternoon on the computer working on requirements back in the states.
We at a late lunch of Corvina and Plantenoes (fired plantains) at the restaurant next to the river separating Gorgona from Coronado. We then met our landlords back at our house to let the repairmen in to fix the gas stove (it was too high) and install two ceiling fans on the first floor. This makes the entire house very comfortable, and we will probably rent the house through February. Our villa will be available for our daughters’ families and friends who come to visit. The legal work on the villa has stretched out for months, but I think we may be home. If so, we will only have the punch list completion before we take possession. Then we will install appliances and furnish the villa. We hope to have this done before Stacia and family come to visit in Mid January.
This morning (Thursday, 12/06) we went for a walk along the same beach, and stopped for a swim. I think the swim really helped my shoulder. I’m not really swimming, just sculling, or pulling with my left hand only. We walked back along the road.
I think the grandkids will find this beach to their liking. It is near the house and villa and has good waves.
We spent the day doing laundry before heading out for dinner at El Rincon del Chef, a very nice restaurant, with an English speaking Chef who has been very helpful with my wheat/gluten allergy. It is generally not a problem here. This is a corn country. The wheat sneaks in via packaged goods, like cereals an pastas.
A couple we had met joined us at our table. We were both heading to the game night for the Playa community. It was a fun evening. We are not much on games, except perhaps scrabble, but it was a lively social evening. Jayne did join in for a rousing group contest of darts. There were several Britishers in the group.
End of Dispatch 3
Saturday Night, December 8
Today is Panama’s Mother’s Day, so there is extra activity and lots of parties. We called home and wished our daughters happy mother’s day! I’ll have to call my Mom tomorrow.
These past few days have been idyllic and I hope will be the pattern for our future days here.
We arose around 7:15, walked to the beach, took a nice swim, walked home, stopping yesterday to buy some red snapper (two pounds for $3) and then for coffee and a visit with some neighbors. When we arrived home, I fixed a breakfast of snapper, tortillas and mermalada, and blended juice with fresh mango and banana.
After breakfast we headed for the Mailboxes etc. to get on the internet. We did some business, made some phone calls over skype to Seattle, and downloaded some tunes (go to jimmyr.com/mp3.php) which I am listening to now.
Yesterday we drove to Las Palmas to explore and have dinner. It is a small fishing village. We had pleasant dinner. They even presented our ¼ bottle of wine for our taste approval, and put it on ice! The waves there are suitable for surfing, and we saw surfers returning home.
Tonight we shopped for needed supplies at Reys and then walked a few blocks to La Ruina, where we ran into some local couples we had met last week. One woman had traveled to Panama when she first graduated high school. Currently she is housesitting, while taking a break from sailing a catamaran from Belize to Cartagena. She had been living in Belize, but may move to Panama. The others had their own adventurous stories. Our meal two limondas, a wine for me, barbeque chicken and sides cost $11.45 plus $1.45 tip. Dave had skate, which is sting ray. We joked that it was necessary because he was stung by one about a week ago.
Earlier today also looked for the best exit to Punta Chame, a close, but isolated point with great potential for beaches and development.
Another fabulous two days in “paraiso!”
I think I’ll attach some photos of our dinner at bayview and the fishing boats there.
End of Dispatch four
Thursday Evening, Dec.13
It has been a wonderful week in Panama. We are settling into a bit of a rhythm while trying to take care of things with deadlines. These include real estate projects at home and trying to close on our beach view villa here.
The morning starts with a stroll to the beach for an hour swim, a possible stop by the fish coop to purchase breakfast, a possible stop by a neighbors for coffee, the preparation of breakfast, the leisurely enjoyment of breakfast, and the cleaning of the dishes. Small food seeking bugs will find any drop of juice you leave on the counter.
We still spend a good deal of time on the internet, for which we have to go to the nearest shopping center and the Mail Boxes Etc. franchise. In addition to the regular business emails, I have been downloading songs for my MP3 player. I’m told this is free and legal, perhaps because most of the selection is either old, or very old, that is the songs I grew up with or the classics written long before I was around. This allows us to fill our space with some wonderful music.
We are woefully out of date on US current affairs. What is up with Britney these days? We don’t know who is leading in the various presidential poles. We get reports on Seattle’s weather whenever we mention we are from Seattle.
We continue to meet some very interesting people, mostly form Canada or the US, but also from Britain, Switzerland and Panama, of course. We talk about our experiences, how long we have been here. Our latest inquiry is for a good furniture builder. Our villa has very little storage, so we need to build storage into the furniture. To avoid mildew when we are not using the vila, we need to keep the storage spaces open and ventilated. Our first purchase will probably be a Queen size bed (no room for a King), a platform with two rows of shelves below for baskets.
We went up to Alto del Maria twice this week. Once was for a jewelry show hosted by a friend who owns a B&B. While we were there it rained harder than I have ever experienced for well over an hour. We went to look at our lot afterward, but did not see any serious runoff anywhere.
This evening we went to a social for expats from Altos. We met a few new people and talked about where to find the best furniture makers, and whether we should build in wood or metal. Houses built of wood in Panama fall down after a few years, mostly from the insects, such as carpenter ants and termites. Many people make much of their furniture in metal. We had not considered that, but it may make sense.
We had the walk through for our Villa today. We had our engineere from Cuba with us. He was very helpful with the engineering type issues, and also the language. The contractor spoke about as much English as we do Spanish. We are working on it, but it is one thing to order food off a Spanish menu and another to discuss whether a window opens properly. We could have done it, but it would have taken all day. A week from now, the punch list is supposed to be completed, except for a French drain to cure a water problem in the back yard. We bought a split A/C unit and a fan for the living room. For appliances, we need four more fans, two more A/C splits, a refrigerator, and counter top burners. No Stove. Far too hot to use a stove! Electricity is very expensive.
We added some time to our cell phone today. Everyone has a cell phone here too.
We bought our phone for $28. One purchases cards to enter pin numbers for time. If you buy on certain days you get from two to four times the face amount as a credit. Calls incoming or outgoing are charged at 10 cents per minute with a four minute minimum. Our first $5 card gave us a $20 credit and has lasted these two weeks.
All of our calls back home are done through skype, which I may have mentioned. You can call anywhere in the world for less than 2.5 cents per minute, and free if you call another computer with the skype program downloaded. Go to skype.com.
I have heard from a few intrepid greyhounds who want to exchange their travel adventures! Join in. Sharing the stories of travel and cultural exploration may not be a good as the real thing, but it is good!
It bums me out that it took me so much of my life to find out what adventure travel can be. Many of you found out much earlier. Some moved to strange lands. Congratulations. I’ve had some business adventures and moved across the country to Seattle, basically for the weather, but how much did I miss? If I had it to do again, I would have combined my business ventures with foreign adventure, and I would be fluent in several languages. It is not too late. I intend to fill every moment that remains with as much foreign adventure as I can manage. This life is not a rehearsal!
Pitures of our breakfast of Langastinos, an Iguana in the road, the rear view of our villa from the 8th floor of condo being built nearby.
End of Dispatch 5
Monday Evening December 17
Since I wrote last, we have made two trips in to the outskirts of Panama, near the Mira Flores locks. We dropped off our first car and picked up a new one at the Albrook Airport, a small airport that serves mostly intra country flights. We had to return in an attempt to get the right car. We have arranged to get this done in Coronodo, where we check our email and shop.
On our first trip in we got lost and went over the Bridge of the Americas, after which one has no idea how to get anywhere. I have not found a good map, and the streets, when signed, are signed differently on different sections. We did better today.
Our first trip was on Saturday and we stopped to look at a place that makes wood furniture. We ended up negotiating the purchase of a queen bed, two twin beds, and a table. The beds all have built in storage to make up for the lack of storage in our villa. We paid a bit more than we could have, but I like to leave something on the table for the other guy, and the spokesman (son of the owner, who was an excellent interpretive drawer and spoke more Engish than anyone else) promised to have the beds done and ready for delivery on January 12, three days before our daughter Stacia and her family arrive for a ten day visit. Our plan has been for them to stay in the villa, while we stay a short distance away in our rental house. The back up plan is for them to stay in the house with us, but that would be a bit crowded, though fun.
We ate lunch at the restaurant owned by the same family that operates the furniture factory. It is nearby and serves “tipico” Panamanian food. We had two tamales, some yucca, and juego naturales for $4.50. We had dinner nearby on our return from Panama and paid about $17.00.
When we returned in the evening we called our grandkids who were gathered for the two Christmas birthdays (our daughter Sarah 37, and Stacia’s son Clay 11). Clay is quite the compute whiz. He prompted us to get a web cam. We called computer to computer over skype at no cost and had a great time. We were sitting outside Mail Boxes Etc., using their wi-fi. Our picture to them was of us sitting in our car, lighted only by the car’s dome light, while it rained outside in the dark!
After that call, we answered some email, and found that our high school friend Karen Kalish was on line, so we called her. We have been discussing having Karen visit us in early February. We worked out a few of the logistic details before our battery power for our PC eroded and cut off the call. I think it is so great that Karen is coming to Panama. A few months ago, a good friend of mine died suddenly, during the week she was scheduled to be in Panama for a conference involving her as a leader for Microsoft’s charitable giving efforts. I had been working to introduce Beth and Karen. They shared similar work and enthusiastic personalities.
We have had some unbelievable rain storms. They tell us that this is unusual for the tail end of the rainy season. Two of them in the past few days were about an hour of torrential downpour. In Panama an empty canal filled up while we were not looking. The streets run with water for hours afterward. There are large lakes of water on the highway, slowing the driving speeds. The standard highway speed is 100 kilometers per hour, reduced to 80 near areas having a pedestrian bidge, or 60 in larger towns. That 60, KPH, about 36 Miles per hour.
Buenos Noches.
The pictures are of the drawing for our bed, the wood from which the furniture will be made, a quick shot of the canal from the Balboa bridge.
End of Dispatch 6
Thursday Morning, December 20
We have continued our daily schedule. After our leisurely morning of swimming, walking, breakfasting and cleaning, we head to the Mail Boxes Etc. to check our email and conduct some business. I have been downloading songs for my mp3 player which gives us something to listen to that we can understand. These devices are marvelous.
This morning on our beach walk we bumped into a neighbor returning home with his surf board. He had been up to catch the 5:10 low tide at San Carlos, just up the beach. He checks tides at http://www.magicseaweed.com/ and tells us there is a good surfing instructor right on our beach at the Coronado beach club. She take learners to San Carlos for the lessons, I believe.
We were exploring San Carlos on Tuesday. It is a legitimate beach community and would be great place to live. We are enjoying the proximity to the beach and the diversity of Gorgona. San Carlos is similar, but not so far advanced with regard to condo developments. The Bayview where we ate last week is in San Carlos.
Yesterday afternoon we headed to Penonome, a major market and shopping destination. It is on the Interamerican Highway, but where it heads inland into cattle country. We are shopping for appliances for our villa: washer, drier, counter top stove, two more split a/c units, fans and refrigerator. I think we met the king of deals in one of the stores. He was of Islamic heritage, though he pointed out he was a Christian. There is a large Muslim presence in Panama. Also Chinese dating from the French attempt at a canal about 1860. They run a lot of shops and Chinese Restaurants. The Woo family has a ferreteria (hardware store)in Sora, near Altos. The local story is that some members of their family were kidnapped by the Chinese Mafia. A demand was made of the family in China before the local family was even aware of the abduction. We are all concerned for the family and waiting further news.
At any rate I gave George our list of needs, and he said he would get us the best prices in Panama.
While in Penonome we ate a lunch purchased at a sidewalk vender, working under a tent with electricity for blenders: Two batidos (milk shake, heavy on the fruit, light on the milk), half a chicken, yucca and fried rice for $6.50. When we get hot, we stop for an Arroz con Pina juice drink: rice with pineapple. $.25.
The streets were crowded with venders and shoppers. Christmas is big here, relative to France, but less intense commercially than the US. Lots of lights, nativity scenes and Christmas trees. On the 15th the workers received their standard pay, plus the required 13th month salary, so they are flush. We will wait until after the Christmas rush to buy our appliances.
End of Dispatch 7
jwleet@aol.com,Ccampbel@Tulane.edu,enibloc@hotmail.com,jancastro1@gmail.com,Janetrease@gmail.com,jule@comcast.net,Kalcoms@aol.com,Kathrynmusholt@sbcglobal.net,lego_builder@earthlink.net,Lucinda.hakansson@edu.karlskoga.se,mjvtz@bellsouth.net,nrmoeller@yahoo.com,pabby@comcast.net,pegmorgan@uuma.org,rasl1@yahoo.com,sarahjayneleet@earthlink.net,sherrill@academicinstitute.com,smcmo@aol.com,Stacialon@comcast.net,susancastelazo@comcast.net,thesmellyarmpit@comcast.net, MsMarilynSamuels
Thursday Evening December 20
I just responded to an email from a high school friend who has raised her family in Sweden. Cindy had pneumonia but is recovering. I have found in swimming and exercise that the main thing, especially as one ages, is to not go backwards. I takes too long to recover if one does not take the time to rest properly the first time.
In the past two days we have met two couples from Norway, one man from Holland, and some young gals from Sweden. We had drinks with the two couples this evening. I think the Scandinavians are taking over Panama! We are glad for their entry. Actually, US influx may be cooling and Canadian, European and South American immigration and tourism are on the rise.
The temperature is basically the same in Panama all year round. It depends more on location. During the rainy season, which is nearly over, the temperature will drop during a storm. We heard some school girls complain that it was cold today during a storm. We laughed. It was still at least 80 degrees F. 85 to 90 F is probably average, but there are good breezes, and one gets out of the sun during he middle of the day.
Christmas is big here, both religiously and commercially. We have tired of the commercialism in the US. We enjoyed Christmas in France in '93: Almost no commercialism, just a small family celebration and church attendance. In Panama we see lights, Christmas trees and special sales. It is enough, but there will probably be more as the years go on.
Panama is largely Catholic, though I do not see many people in the churches. Many children are educated in the parochial schools, so this keeps Catholicism strong.
I value the community aspects of the various holidays. Thanksgiving is my favorite. I am active in the Unitarian Universalist fellowship in West Seattle. I think our web site is wsuu.org, if you want to take a look. It is a fellowship that welcomes all people and does not have any dogma. We do understand the value of ritual and celebrate the various holidays with our own interpretation or non-interpretation. Probably 20% of our members are atheists, 40% agnostics, and the rest deists who do not believe in a personal god, that is one that suspends the laws of nature to answer a prayer. Cindy in Sweden tells me that for the day after Christmas, they go visit all their friend and neighbors. I think that sound like a great tradition. What do you think, Reverend Peg .
Cindy was thrilled by the speech Gore gave when awarded his share of the Nobel Peace Prize. We have been so disappointed in Bush. We did not vote for him, as a majority of Americans did not. I had hoped he would be a do nothing Republican, but he has been a neo-Fascist. Being in Panama, isolated from the daily bad news, has been a great relief. I had some small hope that Gore would be drafted to run again, but that doesn't appear likely. I have given money to Edwards and like Obama. Any of the Democrats would keep us out of future messes like Bush has floundered into.
I’ll try to return to the joys of travel, but the contrast between the underlying goodwill of the season and the actions I see the US taking causes me great deal of pain. Fortunately it is joyfully sunny here, and one cannot remain depressed for more than half a moment. One gets a week’s worth of vitamin D in a few hours on the beach!
End Dispatch 8
Monday Evening December 24
We are sitting home reading. Most things closed early today.
We started our day with our joyous swim and beach walk. We drove up to the Coronado shopping area where the Mail Boxes Etc. is located. We had left our power cord, which put a damper on doing any computer work at home. It is amazing how dependent we become on these technological gadgets.
We tried to call our daughter Sarah to wish her a happy birthday, but we were not able to get through. Happy Birthday, Sarah! We had reached her and our grandson Clayton a few days ago. His 11th birthday is Dec. 23. His email is “thesmellyarmpit”!
Part of my ongoing activity at the Mail Boxes Etc. is to download songs for our MP3 player. It is great to have. I’m still looking for a source of downloadable NPR-type commentary. If anyone is a whiz at such things, please inform us as to how we can do this.
We dropped in to see a new friend, who’s wife is back in the states to be with her brother who is dying. People do just drop on each other here. Of course, everyone can afford a maid, at less than $200 a month! So that makes it easier. We are looking for a maid to share with some others in the villa. Even the simple act of pushing a broom in the middle of the day causes one to sweat. The owner of La Ruina,a native Panamanian, said she has someone she uses two days a week, and she would check to see if she has some free days.
We had our Christmas eve dinner at Don Chacho’s, one of our favorites. We get Pollo entero, mixto vegetales, dos limonadas, y platenos. It is a family run restaurant and the school age daughters were present today, and having fun. See our photo, and note the decorations. Our dinner with our 10% tip was $15. Sometimes the tip is already in the bill, so one needs to look.
On Sunday we got going early (only I went for a swim) for a trip to El Valle. It is a valley over the mountains and is about an hour away. It is an established community and an arts, crafts and produce market for a broad area. I bought my Panama hat there last February.
We were looking for a source for baskets to use for storage in our villa. We were successful. We bought one large one for $12 (see photo), ordered another one and began negotiations for about twenty smaller baskets that we will need when the villa is ready. The large basket we bought is large enough for our five year old grandkids to hide in. Jayne bought some woven fish (see photo) and we bought some fruits and vegetables.
On our way home we picked up our shoes which we had bought each other for Christmas. See me posing with the shoemaker. $12 each pair. Made to fit.
We continue to struggle with getting our villa ready for Stacia and her family. We have some allies who own villas in the complex. I think we are making progress, and we are prepared to have someone else finish off the last details, if necessary.
We also stopped to look at some rustic wood furniture. It is very inexpensive, can be made quickly, and we like the look. The one manufacturer said his was made of teak, which is a common wood. There are large programs for teak growing. One can get to the head of the line for a residency visa or citizenship by buying a small teak farm, for about $40,000. They claim an 11% cash yield annually for an investor.
Last evening I went for a sunset walk to the villa. This evening I went the same direction, more or less South, but continued past the villa for a mile or two. The walks took me though the fish coop area and I realized that this must be one of the safest beaches possible. The coop always has members watching their several dozen boats which are their livelihood. See the pictures of the beach, the sunset and villa from the beach.
Some caution us to not walk on the beach at night, but within reason I think they are safe. There are no people on the beaches at night. Heck, there are almost no people on the beaches in the day. The most people I have seen on the beach was on a Holiday. There were two large families. Most mornings there are one or two other couples walking on the beach. Panamanians, basically, don’t seem to like to swim and the expats prefer do other things, though they all want water view.
We met a few more people again today. There was one day that we met only one new person. People are looking for connection.
We have been invited to a Christmas day dinner in Altos.
.
End of Dispatch 9
jwleet@aol.com,Ccampbel@Tulane.edu,enibloc@hotmail.com,jancastro1@gmail.com,Janetrease@gmail.com,jule@comcast.net,Kalcoms@aol.com,Kathrynmusholt@sbcglobal.net,lego_builder@earthlink.net,Lucinda.hakansson@edu.karlskoga.se,mjvtz@bellsouth.net,nrmoeller@yahoo.com,pabby@comcast.net,pegmorgan@uuma.org,rasl1@yahoo.com,sarahjayneleet@earthlink.net,sherrill@academicinstitute.com,smcmo@aol.com,Stacialon@comcast.net,susancastelazo@comcast.net,thesmellyarmpit@comcast.net, MsMarilynSamuels
Thursday Evening, December 27
We have had an eventful few days.
On Christmas Day we took an especially long swim and walk along the surf. We saw over 25 people in the 2 ½ hours we were on the beach! A group of local Panamanians were even playing soccer on a flat piece of sand surrounded by water. We saw a few of our local neighbors on the beach, as well.
In late afternoon we drove up the hill to Altos for a dinner with Rachel and Geroge and Melissa and Dan. We took one of the more expensive bottles of wine we could find in the store, something less than $4. It was from Argentina and excellent.
We had a very traditional Turkey dinner with mashed potatoes, cranberries, yams, stuffing… The works! It was a fine meal with great conversation.
We expressed our need to become better oriented to Panama, and Melissa volunteered to ride along with us to the city the next morning. We accepted her offer, and met her at the local Pio Pio (fast food chicken, done slowly and better). We drove in over the Avenue of the Americas Bridge to the Albrook Mall, then to a meeting with our developer in the Global Bank Buildling, the Multi-Max center for lunch and a visit to the ritzy grocery store Riba Smith and the Do It store to look at appliances. We dropped off some documents to our attorney and headed out of town.
Melissa is a former E R nurse, recently married to an E R Doc. They set off three years ago to travel the world, but took a hiatus when they reached Altos. They are completing a house and then plan to continue their travels. We dropped Melissa off at the Pio Pio and she took a bus up the hill to Altos. It was fine day, and we now know how to get around in Panama City a little better.
We arrived in Coronado in time for the expat dinner. We saw some old, new friends and met some more. Ty and Kris are from Pocotello Idado, and Ty worked in a community health center that Jayne worked with. They seem a little bored with life in Altos and wanted to see what we have bought in Gorgona. A unit has just become available for resale, so perhaps their timing is right.
Today we took a quick walk and dip and headed over to the villas. We had hoped to meet the dish TV guy, but no luck. We did meet our contract at the developer and her brother, the architect. We did another walk through and they have assured us that everything will be done (with a few minor exceptions) by January 10. We are going to continue making our purchases with that as a target date.
We went for a swim in the pool, while discussing the project with our neighbors. The water was pleasantly cool. We think the grandkids will like it. We checked our email at Mail Boxes Etc., had a Greek Salad, lentil soup and platenoes at the Malibu restaurant, and then drove back to our neighborhood and stopped for wine and flan at La Ruina. We closed the place at 9:00 talking marketing with the owner.
We may drive in to Panama tomorrow to find more items for the villa. Fans and washer/drier and a/c splits are on the top of the list.
I’ll enclose a picture of our Christmas dinner group. Note our new shoes Jayne and I gave to each other. My shirt is one of my favorites, purchased in the Zona Rosa in Mexico City in 1991!
End dispatch #10
Sunday Evening December 30, 2007
On Friday we had lunch with Bill and his two friends at La Ruina. Bill is a web designer and built one for La Ruina. Unfortunately, Frank does not use the internet. Bill and I think La Ruina would benefit greatly from offering internet service. The service is not very available in our part of town yet. We are concererned that the owners of La Ruina are not capitalizing on their tremendous assets, and will not survive, or just limp along, which is worse than not surviving. It should be a real asset for the community.
On Saturday we drove into the El Dorado mall in Panama. It is an old mall, with open air corridors. Finding parking was very difficult, but when we did there was a mall employee to watch our car. We tipped him $2 later when we came out from our shopping, some three hours later.
The mall has an interesting mix of stores. We patronized a stand that drilled holes in coconuts and dispensed fresh coconut juice, very refreshing. We had a lunch for less than $7 for two, consisting of an entre (turkey and ham), fried plantains, coleslaw, rice, etc. Very quick. Very good. We shared a table with a Panamanian couple.
We then shopped at Saks (not 5th avenue, Tumbo Muerte!). It was amazing. The first thing I saw when I entered the store was a display of $240 Speedo, full body, lycra racing suits for $4. Less for children’s sizes. I bought all they had for $153, which I think is something over $12,000 at retail. I’m sure my teammates in Seattle will love to have some at a substantial discount over retail. I then placed them in the deposito for safe keeping. One does not carry one’s packages around in the store while shopping. You get a number and do not need to tip.
We then bought things we need for our villa: plates, flatware, sheets, towels, chairs. We had a very attentive sales person. We filled our car’s trunk and back seat for about $300. Absolutely amazing prices. I am not one who enjoys most shopping (other than grocery shopping), but this was fun.
After we paid, the bags were loaded on a cart and another employee carried everything to our car for us. I tipped him $1. It is hard to know what to tip, but you don’t want young kids making more in tips than their parents who struggle in the trades.
We had dinner at a quieter version of the restaurant at which we ate lunch. It reminded me of the Popes in Clayton Westroads and on Grand Avenue. They had futbol on wide screen TV, but no sound. The food was good, again. For $8.50 we had one entre, several sides, two juices, and a fruit plate.
Jayne negotiated our one turn out of town to the Interamerican, passed the Rod Carew Stadium and back to Gorgona. She is doing all the driving while I recuperate from my rotator cuff surgery. I get all the sightseeing and try to hold my tongue. One of our great high school experiences was when we entered a gas economy rally in my Morris Minor. I drove. She navigated. We made a good team. We still do, but it works better when I am driving and she is navigating. Navigating here is difficult. The streets are not clearly marked, and there are no good Panama City maps. Entire traffic circles are missing, and one street may have several names. Driving at night, which she was doing on our return, is difficult until one knows where the potholes are. The roads are much better than Costa Rico, but there are challenges.
We will be back in to El Dorado and some other shopping areas soon. We need a number of things, including all our appliances.
Speaking of the Rod Carew stadium: I noticed they seemed to be getting it ready for baseball season. There is almost no parking, and it is in the middle of large jungle park, so taking he bus would be the thing to do. Soccer (futbol) is king, but baseball is also big.
We entertained our first set of friends today. Our new friends from Pocatello had indicated an interest in seeing our villa, and the beach, so we invited them to arrive at 8AM for a walk, swim, tour of the villa, a trip to the fish market, and a breakfast. We had a pleasant time, and were out of the sun before 10. Our breakfast is usually pan fried fish (red snapper today), fried tortillas, green tea, and fresh fruit smoothies (papaya with pina today). While talking we saw a two foot long Iguana cross our yard. Ty has been a practicing physician and football coach and Kris a teacher, so we had plenty to talk about. Doing this in the morning shows our area off to its best advantage, and they didn’t have to drive back the mountain to Altos in the dark.
This afternoon we had an early dinner at an old favorite restaurant on the beach in Santa Clara, where we had stayed last January when we first arrived in Panama. There were actually several hundred people swimming and enjoying the beach We had caviche, which is fish or shrimp “cooked” in lemon juice, no heat involved. We also had pino batidos and a fruit plate of papaya and pina. All for $12.50. This is part of a resort complex, so prices are higher, but still reasonable and worth the money.
On the way over and back we saw more of the manikins we have been seeing by the side of the road. Some have signs. One, which I will try to photograph tomorrow, looks like George Bush. We are told they will be burned for the new year, something like burning man, or the year end throwing away of troubles by burning pieces of paper at some church services. There is an increased police presence on the highway, as there has been for other holidays.
End of Dispatch #11.
Monday Evening, January 1, 2008
For the last day of the year we had a swim, a walk on the beach, a leisurely breakfast of a papaya smoothie, red snapper, fried tortilla with jam, and green tea. What else is new?
We spent some time checking email and attempting to call the kids on skype, but the Mail Boxes Etc. closed early, thwarting that effort. We had a nice meal at Don Chacho’s: chicken, vegetables, smoothies, and patacones. Half the chicken is taken home to eat another day.
We met more interesting people, including a man who has started a real estate inspection service to fill the void in Panama. We me another man who seemed t know everyone. He invited us to his home to see if we would know anyone who would like to buy half a waterfront lot for $425,000. Actually, it is not a bad deal, given the dramatic cliff view and the neighborhood, and beach access. We ended up talking about possibilities of land development syndication.
In the evening we went for a stroll through our village, watching the kids light fireworks and play in the streets. The streets are primarily for pedestrian use.
We did not sleep well last night, as the fusillade of fireworks exploded all night long. Today the explosions were replaced by booming bass speakers and assorted loud music. Panamanians do love to party. We escaped by turning on the noisy air conditioner unit and taking a New Years Day celebratory nap.
We met some new people at our villa, and discussed the future of our maintenance fees with other owners. The original $50 per month may now be $150. Other owners are concerned, whether they be Panamanian or Canadian. The big item is security. We now have a heavily armed guard 24/7. Something less military would work just as well. A full time maintenance staff would be cost effective.
This morning we took a swim and a walk, and ate a leisurely breakfast, but more so because most places are closed and there was nothing special we needed to do.
We spent almost three hours talking over Skype to our kids and grandkids and my mother. The web cam makes it almost like being with them. It is great!
I must clean the bones out of my fish head stew I made today. It smells good. I’ll let you know.
I hope this day begins what will be a very happy new year for you. Time is the limited commodity. “Get busy living , or get busy dying.”
End Dispatch #12
Saturday Evening, January 5, 2008
We continue to struggle with getting our villa completed, while beginning every day with a swim, walk and leisurely breakfast, with only the occasional quick breakfast for an early getaway for shopping for furnishing the villa.
On Wednesday the 2nd we drove into the Eldorado area to sign a document for the villa. When we got there, we found no one who spoke any English and 5 new documents. After some phone calls, we arranged to have the documents shipped to our local branch where there is an assistant who, though not very knowledgeable about banking procedures, speak Spanish and English and Japanese (though that has not come in very handy, yet).
At the Eldorado Mall we also bought some more furnishing items at Saks. I have found out that the full body racing suits I bought there are actually in great demand by the surfers to avoid being stung by the aqua males (jelly fish). I brought one down for that reason. The water is getting cooler, and foretells their return.
On Thursday the 3rd we spent a few hours with the aforementioned assistant, Gerte. We left thinking all was completed, but received a cheerfully irate (no one gets angry or raises their voice in Panama) message from the developer spokeswoman (Irma), asking why we had not signed the actual deed. The reason is that we were told we didn’t need to.
On Friday the 4th we returned again to our local branch, signed the specified deed, asked some questions which we were assured would be answered, like where was the specifically mentioned translation of the document? We also filled out the papers for an account, which is a requirement for having a loan. We had been told this had been approved and done several months ago. We had to meet some friends for lunch, so we only completed the application for the Savings account, and put in some money to open the account.
We met our lunch friends, Ty and Kris from Pocatello, Idaho at a small typico Fonda in Sora, near our lot in Altos del Maria. We each chose either the chicken or beef lunch with a coke or fresca. It was very basic, but good.
The four of us spent the afternoon exploring various houses in Altos. We dropped in on Howard and Ziggy from GB and Belgium. They had their house built ($76,000 for about 800sq. ft) while not here, trusting the surpervision of their architect. It turned out fairly well. I think I will contact their architect to discuss drawing up some plans for a small casita on our lot. Our current thinking is that we will do small casitas wherever we like, around the world, if possible. Our house in altos would probably be a little smaller than Howard and Ziggy’s.
Friday night I loaded 45 new tunes in my MP3. I accidentally erased the 220 songs I had! It was very quiet for a few days. This time I downloaded more classical. They never get old.
Today was laundry day, after our breakfast of fresh Langastinos. It takes some energy to do laundry here. Any effort in the heat of the day is exhausting! During those hot hours, we are usually driving somewhere in the air conditioned car.
This evening we dined at La Ruina. We had a pleasant business oriented conversation with the owner. He sees what is happening to the area and wants to capitalize on the growth. We also met a couple from Texas who complained about how poorly Bush was doing and how he has taken the country in much too liberal a direction. We probably won’t keep them on our social card.
For those of you who have been enticed to schedule a trip to Panama, you might want to know what items we are glad we brought, sorry we brought, glad we didn’t bring, and sorry we didn’t bring.
I am glad I brought: my non cotton clothes, my cargo pants with zip off bottoms (put back on to visit the banker), my Keens, my Panama Hat (though available here), my rechargeable batteries and battery charger, our travel coffee pot and travel pan, card for easy access to cash for places that don’t take cards.
I’m sorry I brought: too many clothes, extra pairs of long pants,
I’m glad I didn’t bring: lots of things
I’m sorry I didn’t bring: My beach Teeva sandals (though flip flops work well), my travel books and good map of Panama.
I may think of some other items.
Pack light. The taxis are small.
I've attached some photos showing Jayne schlepping the AC box and putting up the laundry, as well as a house by the architect we are considering. I am currently almost 7 weeks post op on my rotator cuff surgery and have almost full mobility. Though I can swim a few miles every day I can't pick up anything heavy, so Jayne gets to do it, including the 5 gallon drinking water bottle, and doing all the driving, which can be quite shocking with numerous potholes.
End Dispatch 13
Tuesday Evening, January 8, 2008
Today we have been into Panama to shop for appliances. We have purchased three split A/C units which need to be installed. We also made arrangements for the gas people to come out with a 100 LB canister of gas for our stove, clothes dries and barbeque. I had scheduled that for tomorrow, but need to postpone the visit until we have the appliances.
We feel like we need to have a refrigerator and fans for our visitors. The clothes washer and drier can wait a bit.
We had previously ordered our beds and went to check on the progress on Sunday. Nothing had happened, but the responsible party assured us they would be ready and that we should come back on Thursday to view the progress. We had a nice lunch at his family restaurant. We learned that the father and son play guitars together during the late morning at the restaurant, when they are not too busy. They were very busy on Sunday because of the Holiday.
There seem to be a lot of holidays here. This one was moved to allow for a three day weekend and everyone headed for the beaches. See the picture of our normally empty beach, just before sundown.
This holiday commemorates the shooting deaths of several students, shot by American military in the late 60’s. I told the youngest male family member at the restaurant, that the military (national guard) was shooting people in the US too, so not to feel alone. The students were demonstrating for the US to get out of the canal zone. We felt that it would be better to claim Canadian citizenship for the day.
We have had one person berate us for Bush’s blunders. We told him he was preaching to the choir. He was a little strange. He approached us while we were in the water in front of where he apparently lived. He swam in and asked us what our religion was. He went on to tell us he was a reincarnation of Jeremiah. He was from Israel, via a long stay in the US and now Panama. I asked him which land was his, since one cannot be a prophet in his own land.
We have not had any rain for 10 days. The dry season is here. And with it, we are told, serious partying on the beaches on the weekends. It is mostly people splashing and listening to very loud music. Lots of families.
Janice Garden Castro, an old HS friend, had asked me about the armed guard at our villa. Is it that dangerous? No. I feel safe everywhere. I often walk up to the internet café, three blocks from our rental, at 9 or 10 at night. There are no street lights or sidewalks. I am the only gringo for a few miles and am greeted as I walk. The armed guard is a marketing ploy by our developer, and an effort to make sure their equipment is not stolen while no one is living in the project.
We had intended to go to Panama yesterday, but were informed (incorrectly) that the malls were closed. We shopped locally. One of our stops was to order a set of two sofas and a table made of rough wood, for the corner of the living room. It will be similar to what we are posing on in the picture. Price delivered $230. We’ve seen cheaper, but the quality was not as good. We had the craftsman redesign a bit to allow for basket storage under the seats. The sofas cold be back up sleeping for grandkids. We will have the queen and two twin beds. We are looking for good mattresses. We have had full foam mattresses for years, but cannot find them here.
It seems that the full body racing suits I bought are highly coveted by the surfers for protection from the jelly fish. I think I have enough for any visiting adult and child who wants one. Haven’t felt any jelly fish yet, but the water is getting colder.
I talked to my Mother last night via Skype. She had a good trip to Hawaii, though she suffered from a significant nose bleed. She is very appreciative of children and grandchildren who have stopped by. She informs me that Wally Lundt is 80 this year. He coached me and my two daughters in competitive swimming and water polo. His induction into the national water polo hall of fame inspired me to start playing again a few years ago.
End Dispatch #14
Friday Morning, January 11, 2008
Just some pictures of our breakfast. The tortilla comes wrapped in a leaf. It is boiled for 20 minutes.
My local internet provider.
A local good road. They vary greatly.
End Dispatch #15
Friday Evening, January 11, 2008
The week whizzed by. Every day is a success before breakfast with our swim and walk on the beach. A few of the days we had a relatively quick breakfast and then began our chores. We are trying to get what we need for the Villa to be habitable and everything done legally so we can take possession.
Today we learned that the workers had concreted our entire back yard! The agreement was for them to install a French drain to handle the excess water in the rainy season, move the compressor pad to the back fence, build a wall around the tree, and lay gramma block. We were very upset, which is something the Panamanians never allow to happen. We were on the phone with our engineer/translator, the head developer person (Irma), and the Spanish only foreman. We have been assured that it will be ripped out and corrected.
Tomorrow is a big day if everyone shows up: The Satellite TV guy, our sofa delivery, the foreman with all the keys for our unit, the Do It Center with our washer, drier, refrigerator, fans and barbeque, and Erik Edwards who sold us our Altos lot with some final paper work.
We spent one full day going into Panama again to pick out the appliances. On the way we stopped to check on our beds again. Nothing had started. The squeaky wheel gets the grease, so we keep showing up. We will drop by again tomorrow. I think they will have made some progress. If not, we can borrow three of their beds for our visit by our daughter Stacia and her family.
We are, by necessity, getting better at getting around in Panama. Jayne says I only “yelled” at her once. It is tough being a passenger. We still get lost if we come into town over the Bridge of the Americas, but we can get to all the areas in town.
I don’t know if I can give you an image of the traffic in Panama using my pictures, but I’ll send a few. Every city has its own rules and traffic logic. I don’t know if there are any reliable traffic statistics for Panama, but there seem to be fewer accidents than one would expect. In the event of an accident, the parties are to stay there, without moving he vehicles, until the police arrive. During the wait a negotiation often occurs, the deal settled, and the drivers proceed.
You have to be aggressive to drive here. People don’t understand what you are doing if you are too courteous. It confuses them. People own the roads. Pedestrians, that is. In Gorgona kids will sit on the street at night to talk. It doesn’t make sense to sit in the grass, too buggy. The pathways were for pedestrians long before auto traffic showed up.
I think we found a cleaning girl. Though we could have afforded it, we never used anyone to clean in the states. The disparity bothered us. Here it seems as if we are helping the economy, and taking a great strain off ourselves. It takes a lot of energy to push a broom in the heat. The going rate is $10 per day. With the sand, there is a lot to clean. If you leave a drop of juice on the counter, it will be engulfed by the tiniest bugs you have ever seen in a matter of several minutes.
You may be wondering how the fish head stew turned out. Fairly well. I removed all the meat, skin and bones, leaving a broth. We used this to cook some langastinos. Then, we added celery, carrots, cabbage etc. to make a soup. It was good. I didn’t ask for the fish heads today, though.
We have arranged for a surf lesson for any child, or adult, who wants on Saturday, January 19. The teacher is well recommended and the site is nearby. You have to be there at 8:00, requiring you to leave the villa a little after 7:00. The low tide that day is 6:30. Flor, the teacher, has a four year old son who is getting into surfing, and says she can tailor the instruction and situation to fit the skill of the student.
We have also learned more about possible snorkeling locations, fishing trips, and even river rafting.
I swam in my full body swim suit today. I was stung by a jelly fish yesterday. I felt some tentacles, but no stings, today.
I've attached pictures of Rod Carew Stadium, located on a good highway, in the middle of a national park, near the city and with almost no parking. A panhandler in a wheel chair. They and sales people are at every intersection. Detail on the side of a Red Devil bus, a ride on which is feared by many, but used by most.
End of Dispatch 16
Thursday Afternoon, January 17, 2008
We have had a very hectic week, beginning with our big delivery day last Saturday.
As I write this, I am sitting on our Terrazzo waiting (hoping) for the air conditioning man to appear and complete the installation of our split a/c units. He came earlier in the week, but the pad for the compressors was not ready, so he took $300 to buy some tubing, returned with a receipt for the goods, and indicated he would be back on Wednesday, after conferring with the construction foreman, Julio. Well, here I am, and cannot track him down. He is known in the community, was referred by my electrician, who was himself referred by our landlady, Elvie, so I believe he will be here manana. Elvie frequently serves as our translator. She is excellent. She used to work for the canal administration and Wesley Clark, one of my choices last time around for the US Presidency. I though we needed a military hero to defeat the draft dodger. I was probably right, but Kerry wasn’t hero enough, apparently. But I digress.
On Saturday we took delivery of our washer, drier, stove top and barbeque. This confirmed that the laundry room was too small for these units to be placed conventionally, but we got them in, and made plans to open up the wall in the future. The refrigerator was, as we knew in advance, too large for the space allowed. Two days later, the tiles around the base of the space had been removed and repainted, and the cabinet downsized by an experto who came from Panama City. The 27 inch, very tall Samsun refrigerator, which opens into the kitchen is now installed and seems to be at home.
The barbacoa turned out to be missing some key parts when we opened it. We had checked the parts at the store, the Do It Center, which is like a Lowe’s, and they were all there. We think a different box was substituted. I am working on getting a new one shipped on Saturday, their regular date for delivery to Gorgona.
Erik Edwards, our salesman for our lot in Altos del Maria, brought some paperwork by. He is looking for lots in Gorgona. I’d like to find some to hold for a while. The place is beginning to boom.
The satellite TV guy came late in the afternoon, but did call a few times to say he would be late. He can get us a satellite system from Puerto Rico which would have the US networks, plus the Turner channels, CNN, CSPAN, ESPN etc. Most satellite systems here only have Spanish language channels. His are from Puerto Rico and because they have been installed their briefly, can be installed here. Legal? I don’t know. We paid our first bribe to a policeman this week, so we are already morally compromised! What’s a few possibly illegal channels? The cost is similar to the regular service, $45 or so per month, after installation. The policeman stopped us for an imaginary violation of not returning to the slow lane after passing. The slow lane is filled with pot holes. I was going to let him write the ticket, but he offered to let us buy him a cup of coffee. I asked if $10 would accomplish that, and he said yes. The transaction took about 45 minutes, so we made him work for his money. This is a way of life here. Everyone experiences it. It was an upsetting experience. When we were in Africa with Sarah, she handled such things so we were insulated. I do not enjoy participating in deception. Next time, when the officer I sizing me up for the size of the bribe, and asked what I did before retiring, I think I will emphasize my consulting work with the police department in St. Louis, about 40 years ago now, but it might reduce the size of the payment.
I’m really more concerned about getting internet. We have adjusted to not having the constant morphine drip. I’m keeping my MP3 player filled, and listening to some old favorites in the evening. There is plenty to keep the mind occupied. Trying to learn to communicate in Spanish takes a lot of brain cells. One needs something familiar to rest in.
It has begun to rain. We actually had three rain storms in the past four days, which is very unusual for this time of year. It is a warm rain, and cools everything off. It spoiled some newly poured concrete yesterday, but the workers repaired it today.
We did hire our cleaning lady. Her name is Lilly. She is a young single mother of three, speaks very little English. She lives nearby and rides her bike to our house. She cleans with great initiative, though she uses a lot more soap than we would. But we’re not. We have hired her for two days a week, $10 per day. One day at each house. After we return to Seattle, I hope we will be organized enough to continue using her to clean the villa, since we will be renting it out.
The last delivery on Saturday was our two sofas and a table, made with small logs, of what he claimed to be cedar. He had a hard time finding our location. When he arrived the design was wrong with regards to the pattern on the back, but ok for storage and size, and potential supplemental sleeping. I didn’t care, and Jayne decided she could live with the alternate pattern. The color, however was another matter. We wanted a mahogany (mas rojo), but it was blond. After much negotiation we allowed him leave to purchase some stain and do the job in our living room. It took a few hours, but he and a helper got it done. They did create a bit of a mess on the floor and wall. I kept pointing out things for them to clean up with their kerosene. Eventually, I told him it was done, and that I was going to withhold $10 por limpio (cleaning). He was not happy, but it seemed a fair solution.
We have been checking on our beds regularly. They were not begun as scheduled. When they were begun, the Queen bed was not tall enough to give the storage we wanted. Ariel and his family graciously made the changes, once they understood them They thought the bed would be too tall.
On another trip we found that the twin beds were too big, 60 inches wide instead of 40. They had confused twin with twins, which to them would imply beds for two people. I think they have it now. We are to view the completed project at 5:00 today, and have them delivered. They are a lovely family, and we have enjoyed them and their restaurant. At some point we want to see the father and son, second and third generation, perform on their guitars at the Margot Restaurant. We love their food, including the corn tortillas wrapped in a large leaf, which we get to go. About $.50 each.
This week we also had the fans installed, which will make the villa very comfortable, even if the a/c man never shows. The plumber came to hook up the instant hot water. Everyone uses instant hot water because of the high cost of electricity. Because of that cost I have had a tank of propane installed and lines run to the barbacoa, gas secadora and estuffa. The line ended up being on the outside of the house, instead of in the wall as I had expected, but I’m learning to get along, and will have it painted white to match the house.
I thought I had lost my swim fins this week. I had left them on the lava while I went back into the ocean to take off my full body suit, which protects me from jelly fish. When I came out of the water, the fins were gone, washed away by unexpectedly high waves. I searched but thought I would just have to figure out a better way to swim and keep the stress off my healing shoulder, and strengthen my kick. The next morning, a woman whom I had chatted with a few days ealier, saw me heading to my swim, and told me the fins had washed up to her while she was swimming. She remembered me having them, and kept them, checking with various people who she thought might know me. I retrieved them while chatting with her. She was another intrepid traveler from Colorado, traveling on her own to all parts of the world. One meets very interesting people her. It is the best part of traveling.
We went to a nice dinner with two other couples on Tuesday night. One couple is from Canada. The other is American and Colombian. We had a great time.
We have been so busy that we thought yesterday was the day our daughter Stacia and her family were arriving. It is actually today.
The rain has stopped. I will go to pick up Jayne in our new rental car, a large diesel Toyota Land Cruiser. This will accommodate the six of us over the rough roads and give us a lot of traveling flexibility. I’ll let you know how it works out.
End of Dispatch 17
Tuesday Morning, January 22, 2008
I have some time to write now, but first I will ship some pictures to complete your understanding of our bed.
They were completed and delivered the day our daughter and family flew in to Panama. With the additional inches that the Panama style ads to the frame, the beds overwhelm the small rooms, but they give us storage, which is entirely lacking in our villa. In addition the mattress for the Queen is much higher than we are used to. The result is that a person shorter than me (still 6’0”) needs a step stool to get into the bed. We bought one for Jayne’s side.
Yesterday we drove to the market at El Valle and I ordered ten baskets of various sizes which will fit one twin bed and one side of the queen. They will be ready in two weeks.
Jayne has arrived with grandkids Lilly and Clay, so time to fix breakfast.
End of Dispatch # 18
Thursday Afternoon, January 24
On the day I wrote one week ago, our older daughter Stacia, her husband Lonnie, and her two children, Clay (11) and Lilly (6) arrived. We have introduced them to our new home.
The first order of business after picking them up from the Albrook Inn, where they had spent their first night, was to visit the Mira Flores Locks of the Canal. It is where everyone goes to see the Canal. It has an excellent series of educational exhibits, and some historical films.
The next morning Clay and Lonnie had a surfing lesson at nearby San Carlos. Flor was an excellent teacher. I think they are happy with merely boogie boarding on the waves near the villa. We now understand that the best waves come around low tide. Before that time, the water is flat. Too much later, the waves crash on the beach, causing a face plant. Lilly is doing well with her boogie boarding. She actually broke her pink board I half! What a girl!!
The low tide was 6:30 AM on Friday, and will be about 1:00 PM ten days later when they leave. This means that the sun will be out in full effect for many of the days’ prime boarding time, so we have to watch the burns. I try to be off the beach by 10:00 AM, and return abut 5:00 for an evening swim.
Lonnie had his first experience trying to cash a $100 bill. Anything over a $20 requires ID, a signature, a local address and a manager’s OK! They are looking for drug money being laundered through Panama.
We went to the big market in El Valle on Sunday. I picked up my big basket I had on Layaway (abono), and ordered 10 more.
In the evening we had big dinner at our local favorite, Don Chacho’s. In the super market we met a couple from Dubuque who were glad to be away form the minus35 degree chill factor!
We spent a day at Gamboa in the national park. The hotel sponsored tours were booked, and were very expensive. We ended up doing the Zoo for $1 for each adult. We saw the monkeys the grandkids were looking for. It was good. We saw their national eagle. A high light was seeing the leaf cutter ants moving pieces of leaves to their home for growing fungi to eat. They had worn trails in on the ground.
Every day we have swum in the ocean, most days the surf has been great. We have had some great restaurant meals, and some great meals at Papa John’s. I prepare my fruit smoothies, fish just purchased at the coop, corn or yucca tortillas, and green tea.
I have included pictures of a dinner party I mentioned recently, our sofa delivered with the wrong stain and design, and the almost finished back yard.
End of Dispatch #19
Thursday Afternoon, January 24, 2008
Just a few pictures:
Getting ready for the surf lesson at the surf instructor's house on the beach in San Carlos.
Walking through the zoo.
Jayne and Stacial posing in the zoo.
End of Dispatch #20
Wednesday Afternoon, January
Stacia and family left for Seattle on Monday afternoon. We are really missing them. We had a great ten days, everything we had hoped for. From a family point of view, we had no major squabbles, which is a big deal. Jayne and I enjoyed watching the kids and grandkids enjoy themselves, and come to appreciate this part of the world we have chosen to live in for half the year.
The grandkids really enjoyed the waves on the beach near the villa. We didn’t need to go anywhere else for bigger waves. Even with the surf lessons, I think they enjoyed the boogie boarding as much as the surfing. For surfing one needs waves that break just right. There were surfers just up the beach, but we enjoyed riding the waves with our various boogie boards.
We had settled into a simple schedule, not trying to go anywhere very far away. We would go to the beach for a swim and/or riding the early morning waves. We would hang out until the low tide, which signaled the beginning of the good waves period of up to two hours. Then we would have a breakfast at Papa John’s (me) of red snapper, corvina or langastinos, with liquados, corn or yucca tortillas, and possibly fried plantains or bananas. If the low tied was around noon, as it was by the end of their stay, we would go back out after breakfast to ride the waves.
We ran some errands in the afternoon; shopping, checking email. On two occasions we stopped at our local Chinese restaurant, Los Palmas. They seem to understand my and Stacia’s wheat and gluten allergy and prepare our choices with rice noodles and no soy sauce. A half order feeds one for two meals, so there were plenty of leftovers.
We also had a meal at the local fast food restaurant, Pio Pio. It is fast food slow, and is very good. We discovered they have some of the best ice cream we have ever tasted. Very light, not too much fat feel. It is difficult to describe.
After our evening return to the beach for some waves, we would splash around in the pool and then either have a dinner or a snack at the villa, where Stacia and family stayed. Our final activity for several evenings was playing poker, or versions of it. Lonnie knows all the hands, so he taught us to play. It was great fun.
The highlights for the ten days were many. Just getting settled in and enjoying the location was the best part. We created a memory that will last us forever, and I hope (and believe) that the kids and grandkids will feel the same way when they think of their first trip to Panama.
End of Dispatch 21
Monday Afternoon, February 5, 2008
Karen Kalish left this morning after a long weekend. We enjoyed her visit.
Karen is one of the most active people one could ever meet. She doesn’t stay still for very long. A lot of her traveling is of the “three cities in four days” variety, a thought which makes me tired. Our way of seeing a country is to stay in one place and slowly move around to other places, getting to know the people and the places. Karen likes to move much more quickly.
We compromised. After we picked her up from the airport on Thursday afternoon, we drove to the Mira Flores Locks. These are part of the Panama Canal and have displays and movies. Karen was surprisingly engrossed by the scale of the canal. Each time we would pass over the Balboa bridge, she would remark on the canal’s grandeur. It is impressive, and the displays are very informative.
We began the day with a swim, walk, and or breakfast at Papa John’s or, in one case, Pio Pio.
On Friday, we drove to El Valle, a town I have described previously. It is a town in the crater of a long extinct volcano and has a daily crafts and produce market. Karen found some Mole gifts made by an Indian group.
On Saturday we drove in to near the locks, on the outskirts of Panama City, to Soberiana Park. We went for a hike on the Pipe Line Trail. This is a service trail for an oil pipeline, built in anticipation of possible oil shipping interrupted by damage to the canal during World War II. (And we didn’t know the war was coming?) We saw more of those impressive leaf cutter ants. An artist was trying for pictures of them carrying miniature country flags which she had soaked in sugar water to encourage them to pick them up and carry them back to the nest. One picked up Saudi Arabia as I watched. She began to snap away. I got some great movies I would like to share.
We also saw some Coatamundis crossing the trail, heard many birds and saw a Blue Morpheus butterfly. Iridescent Blue and beautiful. The trail is in the midst of a true jungle, with amazing vegetation. The trail give one enough space to step back and actually see it.
Saturday night we ate Chinese at Las Palmas in Gorgona for $12.50. Later we saw a local parade, part of the Carnival Celebration. It seems to be part Thanksgiving: everyone goes to their home town to celebrate and party. There was a Mardi Gras type parade. The parade had many more people than Gorgona has residents. I would say 500. It had a few floats of Mary, baby Jesus, and another figure. They had erected several lighted paper arches over the route, and had a band accompaniment. They would stop to regroup every 100 feet or so. The floats had generators and were carried by men. I think they needed a rest.
The parade in Panama City was on television. There was another one in Panama on Sunday.
On Sunday, we met a pre-ordered car and driver for a three hour tour of Panama City. It was a great tour, guided by a former police captain. The streets were nearly empty because everyone had gone somewhere for Carnival. The highway (the Interamericana) had been backed up the night before, and was very busy on Sunday. We saw where the new American Consulate was. It looks like a prison, and we were cautioned by the entry guard to not take a picture of it. We went to the metropolitan park, which is very close in to Panama. We toured the Canal Zone. Went to the end of the causeway, which is a rock bridge to an island which was created by dumping he debris hauled from digging the canal. It is filled with restaurants, and offers a great view back to the city. We stopped at the Artisans Market. The prices were not as good as El Valle, but they had some interesting masks, one of which Karen bought. We drove along Balboa, which borders the water, to the old city which was destroyed by the pirate Henry Morgan. There is only a limited view of an old fort. We then drove around some neighborhoods to see where the rich live and where some Jewish communities are.
We ended our tour and Karen checked into the the Marriott. We found an open Lebanese restaurant and had a pleasant meal and another interesting conversation. Jayne and I caught a cab back to our car, which we had parked at the Rey at Albrook. Karen caught her flight the next morning.
Tuesday Noon, February 5
We spent a relaxing day yesterday. The Holiday continues, so the beaches have more people than usual.
In the afternoon we went to Lynne and Bill’s home in Coronado for conversation and wine with them and some new friends. We joked about the quality of a boxed Merlot costing only $2.50 per liter. It was from Argentina actually quite good. Richard theorizes that once we acclimatize to Panama, we find the Merlot more tasty than weaker flavors. He also thinks everyone loves 10% of their body weight after they are here 6 months. We have not seen a scale, but he could be right.
After Bill and Lynne’s, Richard and Lise and Jayne and I went to dinner at the new chicken restaurant something like Todo al Carbon. They will have to compete with Don Chacho, which has been our favorite, but has continued to raise their prices to the point where a $10 meal is now $18 for two. Todo al Carbon has just been open 4 days, but was doing brisk business, and includes some excellent cooked vegetables I their chicken prices. Or meal of one half and one quarter chicken and two vegetable dishes and two limonadas was $11 and quite good.
We stopped to check email outside the Mail Boxes etc. We have a dying battery in our computer and parked outside using the wireless signal, so have limited time. Our daughter Sarah had written informing us of a recent, substantial decline in the health of my Mom. She had some blood work and had been referred to an oncologist. The tests diagnose a quick onset leukemia, so she is approaching the end. Mom and I have had numerous discussions about how she wants to handle the end of her life, and I am sure she will not want heroic measures.
I called Mom and chatted with her. Mom told me she had some medicine that would make her feel better, but that she wouldn’t get well. She put Stacia on the phone. Stacia had met her at the doctor’s appointment, and was settling Mom in her apartment. Stacia confirmed the diagnosis and told us (Jayne had rejoined me in the car after shopping) the situation. We don’t know how long she has. Doctors are not good at telling the patient the correct prediction, even when they have feel for it, which they probably don’t since the oncologist has never seen my Mom before and does not realize how vibrant she was a few weeks ago. Over Christmas she took a cruise of the Hawaiian Islands with here younger brother Richard. Every time she returns from a trip with him, she swears it is the last she will go on with him! He just isn’t active enough for her.
Well, we have to figure things out. I may need to go home to see her or bring her down here. I don’t think that would work, but the thought would put some joy in her.
Pictures: Karen at the Panama Canal, The Panama City skyline from Casco Viejo with Karen and John, and John, Jayne and Karen on our outing to El Valle.
End of Dispatch #22
Wednesday Evening, February 6, 2008
Just a few photos: one of the arches built in our small town of Gorgona in preparation for the parade. Leafcutter ants. Every green piece has an ant carrying it. Noriega's house. Why doesn't someone buy it?
End of Dispatach #23
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Karen Kalish, in response to my comments about her being a “three cities in four days” type of traveler writes:
absolutely untrue. I told you about taking my cousin to London for five days and Paris for five days.... and the trip I'm taking her on next summer where we stay in each city for three days...
just want to set the record straight! :-)
Monday, February 18, 2008
It has been 13 days since I made an entry. During that time I prepared for and went on a 5 day trip to Seattle to visit my Mom, and returned to Panama with daughter Sarah and her husband and three boys.
The trip to Seattle was as good as could be expected. I spent a little time with my Mom, limited by her lack of energy caused by the leukemia, and a lot of time with my brother and his wife who came to Seattle. I think I was with her during what will be some of her last lucid moments.
Last Summer I made a donation in her name to the Seattle Art Museum, a small plaque in the new outdoor sculpture garden that says “Carol Leet, lover of the arts.” We told her about it last Fall, but I had hoped she would see it. The thought of seeing he plaque gave her some energy. She was talking about taking some of her friends with her to see it in the Spring. That probably won’t happen. Her prognosis is for a few weeks to a few months. In her more lucid moments she talks about dying soon, as when she added Allen and me as signatories to her bank account, and even says she fears not dying soon enough.
One bright light that comes from all this darkness is the way in which our two daughters, Mom's oldest grandchildren, have done whatever was needed to help Mom. A parent could not ask for more
Seattle was its usual dark and rainy self during my brief visit. It has taken several days of Panama sunshine to get me feeling warm and happy again. It has even rained here three times this week, a very rare occurrence for February. The rain has been heavy and warm. We were at the beach for the last one, and had a walk home in the rain. It was quite pleasant.
We have settled into a routine that is similar to the one we had when our other daughter Stacia and her family were here. We spend a lot of time on the beach boogie boarding and walking. The boys and Sarah have been suffering through colds, but seem to be coming out of it. Paul is having some ear issues, which a local doctor confirmed Sarah’s diagnosis and treatment.
We have thrown in a few trips. We went to the Panama Canal and took a walk on the Pipeline Trail, and today we drove up to Altos to talk with our architect about plans for our lot. On the way back down we stopped to order shoes for the boys, made by a nearby leather craftsman.
We eat out at some of the same local restaurants, make a lot of fresh fruit juice smoothies, get take out at the Las Palmas Chinese restaurant, fix Red Snapper or Corvina fresh from the Gorgona Piscado Cooperativa. Everyone is having a good time, especially us as Grandparents. Being able to share an adventure with our children and grandchildren is absolutely fabulous.
I’ll attach a few pictures of our wonderfully talented and accomplished grandchildren doing things like going to the canal, eating at a favorite restaurant and looking at leaf cutter ants.
End of dispatch #24
Thursday Evening, February 21, 2008
We have had a busy few days.
Yesterday, we went to El Valle. We have been many times, but this was Sarah and family’s first visit. We had promoted it as the place to buy some souvenirs, as opposed to the expensive canal gift shop. Mason and Maverick had their money ready. Maverick, who will be five on the 28th, bought a racing car within a few minutes of arriving. He loves cars. I didn’t even know the crafts market had cars. Mason found a necklace with a simulated shark’s tooth carved from a local nut. They call it Panamanian Ivory. Ty bought a necklace with a small, but real, shark’s tooth.
I picked up the 10 handwoven baskets I had ordered a few weeks ago. I think I am becoming known in the market as the man who buys all the baskets. Later I found that they did fit in the beds, but not with their lids. The lids can now serve as addition al drawers for other storage areas.
There was hardly room in the cars for everyone. We are using two small Yaris vehicles for Sarah’s stay. It is less expensive than the big Toyota Land Cruiser, and gives us some flexibility. We simply have to caravan when all 7 are going somewhere together.
We ate lunch at a new restaurant a short walk from the market. All seven of us ate well for under $20. Mostly we had chicken or carne soup ( similar to sancocho, but with beef), with yucca or papa fritas, or fried plantains.
After lunch we found the small local zoo. It mixes various animals in cages, based on their not eating each other, I presume. They had one of the rare and endangered yellow frogs on display. Various zoos, including the St. Louis Zoo, are involved in a project to try to save the yellow frog. We saw many beautiful birds, including a white peacock, various hawks, and a variety of chickens! The zoo is in a wooded setting. It is run by a family, and is not lush, but the animals seem to be doing well. It is a fun visit.
The drive to and back from El Valle is suited for motorcycles which Paul used to design and race. He enjoyed the driving. It is a beautiful area, and is now connected to Altos, where we own a lot, by a new back road. The drive is less than 30 minutes. We look forward to trying it.
Today we went to watch the boys have a surfing lesson. We hired Flo, the same teacher Lonnie and Clay used. She is quite good. She had an assistant to help with the third student, and he was also good. He got the boys some long boards, which were easier to get up on. Even Maverick was able to get up on his board. The boys are going back tomorrow to practice.
We were all exhausted by the lessons and the time in the midday sun. We had one of our fish and liquado lunches, with tortillas and honey, and Jayne’s coleslaw. My liquado (Mexican for fruit smoothie) of the day is Sandia (watermelon) with papaya and banana and lots of ice is a big hit with the boys. Fruit shakes here are usually Batidos con leche or sin leche.
I spent an hour at the internet café this evening. I called my Mother’s brother Dick, and told him of her condition. He suspected as much. He said he had sent her a note with a clipping about him. He ran into a building while parking and made the front page of the local paper. He was not hurt.
I will attach some photos of the surfing lesson, the zoo visit and a beautiful bird or two.
End of Dispatch #25
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Monday Evening, February 25, 2008
We have had another great family time with Sarah and family in Panama. As with Stacia and family, the thing most family members wanted to do was play in the sand and the surf. We had some great breakfasts at Papa John’s and some great dinners and card games at Sarah and Paul’s.
The Chang-Leet kids are into some interesting card games. The biggest hit is Rat a Tat Cat, which is fun for all ages.
We stopped back to pick up the special order sandals for Ty, Mason and Maverick. They seemed to like them, especially Mason.
In the search for some souvenirs we drove into Cherera to a supermarket called Super X. It is similar to a target or K Mart. It has groceries, clothing, household goods, a restaurant, anything you could think of. Paul found some soccer outfits for each of the boys. On another outing they found great Panama baseball hats for just a few dollars.
Jayne and I spend a bit of time each day attending to matters back in the states, including real estate deals we are working on. This requires checking in with an internet connection. We have been checking in via Skype regarding my Mom’s condition.
We also continue to work on the details for the closing on our Villa. We have begun to wonder if the Home Owners Association will ever get its act together and take care of things like security, and are considering selling our villa. We love being near the beach and the town of Gorgona, so we would replace it with something in the area. We may buy some land and build what we want ourselves. We have found a good architect who is doing work for us for our lot in Altos del Maria. We have also found some good builders who I think could make sure the plans were implemented. It would be best if we were here to check, however.
A big surprise for me has been how handy the barbeque is on the terrazzo. I’ve never been a barbeque person, but Jayne was convinced that we needed one. Using the barbeque outdoors on the terrazzo keeps the house cool. Sarah has even been cooking gluten free cakes and cookies using the barbeque (we don’t have an oven indoors, only a stove top). She turns two burners on low and cooks the cake or cookies for about twice as long as the package calls for. They have been great treats, especially for those of us who cannot go to a bakery or Panaderia and purchase bread or cookies.
Tomorrow is Sarah and family’s last full day here. We plan to hit the beach, have some fruit smoothies and fish, and hit the beach some more. The low tide is about 1:00 PM, so we will be looking for good waves in the heat of the day, but one does what one has to do.
Thursday evening, February 28, 2008
Today is grandson Maverick’s birthday. He is 5 and he arrived back in Seattle early this morning or late last night. We are missing him and his two brothers and his parents.
We took the Chang Leet Family to the airport yesterday. It is a good two hour drive, with second half through heavy city traffic. We need to schedule pit stops. The boys had to stop to pee by the side of the road. This is hardly shocking: you see it al the time. It is hot. One drinks a lot of fluids, and there are no easily accessible bathrooms. I’m not sure how women handle the situation!
We tried to check email at the Riande hotel near the airport, but their system was down. We ate a quick lunch and drove back to Coronado where we spent a few hours on the internet, trying to send some signed contracts for some land we are selling. The bandwidth for sending is not great here. I had to send each page of the contract and disclosure form separately.
There was an expat dinner almost across the street. We attended and saw some old friends, including Linne and Bill, and Janette McDonald (how is that for a name?), and others. We met two women from Germany who live near us in Gorgona and bring their families down from New York each winter. I’m told that the Canadians coming to Panama far outnumber the Americans. My experience supports that.
Today we began our move into our villa. We will sleep here for the first time tonight. We have been despairing of the developer’s lack of helpfulness, and the Home Owners’ Association’s disorganization, but we really do like the concept, and think things will come together to make this a pleasant place to use as a winter base, and profitable rental for when we are not here.
I need to move a few more things over from our rental house and check the email at the local internet café, which someone said looked like Boca Ghetto, or some such. The owner is quite entrepreneurial. He just doubled his space, and is selling quite a list of Hellados (ice cream) and other deserts. Many of the homes seem quite simple, but they are generally clean and well organized. The café is frequented mostly by local kids who play internet games and chat with friends or would be friends. I don’t see them doing internet research, but they certainly know their way around a computer.
I’ll enclose some photos of the Chang Leets during their visit.
End of Dispatch #26
Saturday Evening, March 1, 2008
Shortly after I sent the last dispatch I received word that my Mother had died. I had visited her two weeks ago, and shared some of her last lucid moments.
I think we should all be as lucky as she was. She lived to be 92, and was active until the very end. She took a major trip over Christmas, and had been to South Africa very recently. (She donated a picture of Cape Town to Judson park. It hangs outside her room for everyone to enjoy) One of her major complaints was that there weren’t any travel companions left who could keep up with her.
We had clear notice that she did not have long, and her most important loved ones were able to be with her while she was lucid. Our daughters Stacia and Sarah took turns helping her. My brother Allen (and his wife Cindy) was able to spend some time with her. Allen's four children were all able to fly in and be with her for a few days each. Allen and Sarah were with her until an hour before she died. Stacia had handled admirably the very difficult past two weeks at the nursing home and with all the other grandchildren visiting. She had been with her recently and was scheduled to visit the next day. I know she felt loved, and did not suffer unnecessarily. Jayne and I had made plans to leave Panama early to hopefully get back in time, but that was not to be. I was glad I had gone back and had time with Mom when I did!
She died with a will in place and clear instructions regarding what to do with her furniture and other assets. She had identified and prepaid for the funeral home. She has the music she wanted at her service listed on a note in her top drawer.
My Mother and I were alike in many ways, which created major conflict for us over our lifetimes. The teenage years were rough. College was a disaster. When our children became old enough to benefit from her teaching and camp counseling, she became involved and our relationship began a long, slow improvement. About 15 years ago the relationship was good enough that she and Dad relocated to the Seattle area. She was a fixture, along with her jello salad, at almost all Leet family gatherings in Seattle. She showed great interest in her great grandchildren (5) in the Seattle area, and the two newest ones in New York. She was fond of trying to buy just the right gift to foment intellectual growth. She had been helping the great grandchildren with music and dance lessons. One of them, Clayton, came to be with her not long before she died and played the piano for her. She told me how much that pleased her.
A few years ago we began to discuss how she wanted her estate to be divided. She put those thoughts together in her will. She had considered giving the grandchildren gifts before she died, so that she could enjoy it. I encouraged her in this, but the complexity of how to get the grandchildren at their various levels of age and responsibility to use the money wisely (from her point of view), caused her to hesitate. She then had a stroke, and we dropped the discussions. She did begin to do more with the great grandchildren who could benefit from educational or music support. I know that gave her a great deal of pleasure.
It was her hope that the grandkids would invest the money: either an asset that would fund their retirements (she understood that pensions such as she and Dad retired on were a thing of the past) or in education that would improve their careers and lives. She was a big believer in education. She went back to school for a Masters in her 40’s and had a career in special education. Allen and I sometimes thought that she used up a lot of her patience with the special education kids! She was one of the early housewives to return to the workforce in a serious way.
My one regret is that Mom was not able to see the Plaque in her name at the Seattle Art Museum sculpture park. She was aware of it, and planned to take her friends to see it.
We had thought about bringing her down to experience Panama. I know she would have loved it, but even before the Leukemia she was a little too frail for such a venture. I know she enjoyed receiving this journal. Mom’s efforts to get involved with email were overwhelmed by the junk mail that bombarded her. Stacia made prints of the dispatches and sent them to her.
Travel was one of her loves, and it is certainly one I, and many of her descendants, share. Her mother and father had been adventurous enough to settle in the post Oklahoma land rush territory, but never ventured very far thereafter. Mom started the travel tradition for the Leets.
Today Jayne and I, in the spirit of Carol Leet, went to an art fair in Penonome. We bought two colorful, very Panamanian oil paintings to hang in our villa.
I’ll attach photos of the pictures for everyone’s enjoyment.
End of Dispatch #27
Thursday Evening, March 6, 2008
I would like to thank each of you who had special thoughts about my Mother’s death, and I appreciate the thoughtful comments I received. Thus far in my life, the deaths have occurred in a natural sort of way. There is no real pain in saying goodbye to a parent who has lived a full life, and with whom one has been able to establish a good relationship, with no “woulda, coulda, shoulda” as my friend and recent Panama visitor Karen Kalish commented. Others of you have experienced death outside the natural order, the death of a child or partner long before they had lived out their full span of years. That would create a sadness of epic proportions, and I feel for those of you who have experienced this. As a parent and grandparent I would willingly die before seeing one of my children or grandchildren die.
We have been in our usual morning schedule: swim/walk, prepare food, eat breakfast. My morning swims have been getting longer as my shoulder has healed from rotator cuff surgery. A recent swim was probably 4 or more miles. The water was choppy in close to shore, so I swam out further than usual. There were also large swells which made it impossible for me to locate Jayne on the beach so we could meet and walk back, which is one of our routines. She couldn’t find me either. As a result while I had my long swim, she was worrying that I had been eaten by a shark. I’ve told her that it is as good a way to go as any, and I would die happy. Fortunately, she didn’t have the phone or the key to the villa, so she couldn’t call for help, as she was inclined to do. We have made some adjustments in our routine, so that we are each clear where we are to meet. Next year I will bring down a colorful waterpolo cap to wear while swimming. I find the latex caps too tight.
The balance of our daylight hours have been spent conducting business over the internet and searching for some more near-the-beach property. We would like to find piece of land that would be good for building a home, and a larger piece that would be suitable for doing a small development.
We have done a good bit of research and thinking over the years, concerning overseas investments, and we think the factors for investment and ownership are a lot more favorable in Panama than in most countries, including the US.
A few weeks ago we met a couple, Dick and Lise Burkart. He is a former economist and currently a builder in nearby Coronado. He has written a book: Panama – Your Best Value for Offshore Living, subtitled “Enhance your Lifestyle in a low cost tropical country and save 75% of your expected retirement budget.” Dick has gone through the same thought process we went through, but has put it in a book. He is promoting Panama as a retirement destination, but, more importantly, he is examining the rational for taking a hard look at the sad state of retirement in the US and arguing for you to take the rest of your life in your own hands and make it something you will love.
Dick and Lise initially relocated from the New Jersey to Florida. They then relocated to Phuket, Thailand and finally landed, after a brief stay in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, in Panama, a mile or so from where we own our villa. Our thought process was similar to that explored in Richard’s book. We also explored the Southern USA, especially for real estate investing, as well as Costa Rica, Mexico, and finally Panama.
Panama or some other country makes sense for so many people for so many reasons. It would take a book to tell them all!
If you have reached the often touted magic $1,000,000 in asset value in excess of home equity, or are short of it, one can have more quality of life for less in Panama. If you can think “outside the box” and examine possibilities that most cannot, take a look at this book. It applies to you whether you are an independent billionaire, a retiree on a minimum level of social security, or someone working toward a retirement in between these extremes.
I don’t know where you can buy it, but you can find out by visiting http://www.panamamundo.com/. You may be able to download the book. Mention my name. I don’t know what it will get you, but I am sure Richard will mention you to me when I see him next.
We were viewing property today, escorted by a retired CFL football player turned real estate agent from Montreal. Even though he is new to real estate, his partner is able to stay at home with their 17 month old baby, something they couldn’t do in Minnesota. Panama is also a great country for pre-retirement families, for a thousand reasons. Read the book!
I have pictures of Jayne exploring for shells on a beach devoid of people, a view lot we looked at today, and a cemetery in Gorgona. We always look at a cemetery in the countries we visit. They say a lot about the culture.
End of Dispatch 28
Wednesday Afternoon, March 19, 2008
We are sitting in row 17 of Continental flight 878, heading to Houston. We are excited about seeing the kids again, and resigned to attending to the things we need to take care of, but we could have put the departure from Panama off for several months. We hear it is raining in Seattle. With the recent time change, the sun will be out until after 6, but you can’t see it when it is raining.
The last two weeks, during which I have not written in my journal, went by very fast. I did keep notes in my Daytimer (I haven’t graduated to anything electronic for note taking yet).
We spent a lot of time looking for some land or other real estate to buy. We found some interesting pieces, but have not made a deal yet. I have some deals in the US that I could do, but they are becoming very difficult. The banks are requiring very different terms from a year ago. I fear that the restrictions will cause the US to sink deeper into a recession, or even a depression. We noticed that there seem to be more Canadians, Europeans and South Americans, and fewer Americans, coming to Panama. The US real estate market is slowing down the ability of Americans to invest elsewhere, while the Canadian dollar and the Euro are strong. To me that makes Panama even more attractive.
We offered on two to be built duplexes near the beach, but the builder had increased his price to his after construction price, so we passed. We are working on a nie piece of land near the Rio Mar resort. It is a large piece (1.6 hectares, or about 4 acres), and requires a substantial commitment from us. We have found that financing for purchases are not easy to get in Panama, so many deals are all cash. The seller, an American who lives in Acupulco, has indicated that he will work with me. A Canadian couple indicated that they would like to invest with us, if they can get their condo sold in Canada.
We took that same couple, Bill and Lyne, to see our lot in Altos. They had arranged to exchange their Yaris for a small 4 wheel drive vehicle, and were interested in taking the back road from Altos to El Valle. The first part of the 45 minute trip was on road that had recently been leveled by Melo, the developer of Altos. It was easy, but the road became progressively rougher. The engine of the vehicle was a small gas engine, and we barely made it up some of the hills. Near the summit we reached to point of no return and continued down the treacherous road. I was too terrified to think of taking pictures. When the road became tamer, it occurred to me to take some. The road took us through some mountain farms, with crops on very steep hills. Getting the crops to market must surely have been a challenge.
Jayne had hoped that the Altos to El Valle road would make going to the market in El Valle easy, and thus make living in Altos part of the year more attractive. We are continuing to develop plans to build a casita on the Altos lot. We will sell the lot with the plans, or build the casita and then sell or try using it for some of our time in Panama.
We have been working with a Panamanian architect named Cesar Ituralde. The plans hve gone through a few iterations, and last week we went into Panama (City) to look at tiles, fixtures, and other materials. We like the bright colors and interesting textures. The casita has about 50% outdoor space, some covered. It will be an exciting house. The process of designing and the prospect of building are both very exciting.
Our trip into the city also involved a visit to our immigration attorney. He failed get us our temporary resident visas, so Jayne had overstayed here 90 tourist visa. I had been back to Seattle for Mom’s illness, so I had a new 90 day clock.
The attorney was supposed to get Jayne an extension of her tourist visa, but instead paid a fine for overstaying. Unfortunately, he paid it a day early, so he had to pay it again. The is resulted in another visit to his office. After one pays the fine, one has 8 days to leave the country. If we had showed up at the airport without paying the fine, Jayne would have had to go to downtown Panama to pay the $25 fine, and probably would have missed the flight. We are hoping that the admission of this transgression will not show on her record and create problems for coming back into Panama
While we were in the city, we went to two movies. We are movie goers, but had not had the opportunity while in Panama. We paid $4 each and splurged on a large coke and large popcorn for another $2. We saw Juego de Poder, or some such title, which should translate to the game of power. It was Charie Wilson’s War, which we enjoyed and though very instructive for the mess we are in in Afghanistan. The other movie was the Bucket List, which was a predictable, but interesting examination of some of the issues of dying, particularly relevant with my Mother’s recent death.
When we arrive back in Seattle, we will need to finnish sorting out my Mom’s things. The heavy lifting was done by Stacia and Sarah. We have scheduled a service for April 13. I don’t know who is coming in besides my brother Allen. All the grandkids flew in and saw Mom as she was declining. That was the important time.
From Panama we have been attending to various business items in Washington. One items that came up was a break in our sewer line. Fortunately I was able to reach our plumber on Skype and arrange for him to fix it. We have had two sales contracts negotiated over the internet, and have had some lengthy discussions with the bank and the seller of some property we would like to develop near Cashmere. In addition we have been working on the final disposition of our apartment that was damaged by Katrina. We had to go to the American embassy to have some loan documents notarized for a property in Huntsville. It is possible to do quite a lot while out of the country.
The trip to the Embassy was interesting. The compound looks like a prison. The security is heavy. One hands over their cell phones, cameras, and computers on their way in. You get a number, though you may not need one. I had only to go to the cashier, tell them what I needed notarized, and pay the fee: $96 for witnessing 4 signatures. We then took the documents to DHL for the $56 two day trip to Huntsville. Outside the embassy there are people under tents with computers providing various services.
We recently completed the process of getting our checking account opened. We also now have completion on the deeds for our two properties. Or so we are told, we haven’t actually seen them.
The process for our Costa Grande villa includes having the Homeowners Association take over responsibility for many items. As part of that there will be a HOA meeting in a few weeks. We wanted the meeting to be while we were around, but the developer has managed to schedule to meeting at a time when many of us who were raising issues will not be in country to attend. We have given our proxies to another owner. To include us and the others we had a poolside pre-meeting last Saturday evening. We hashed out most of the issues. After the meeting we felt much better about getting things straightened out. Our issues include the need for a security fence and gate and improved maintenance.
As our time dwindled before departure, we worked hard to take care of the important things. One of the things we wanted to have done was have a mural painted on our living room wall by a local artist. We had purchased a lively painting a few weeks ago by an artist participating in the Penonome art show. His name is Edwin Villareal Espinosa. He came back to us after I had sent him a photo of a mural we liked. He spent two days creating a mural. We are very happy with it. The mural was the center of attention for the complex while it was being created. I’ll attach a
copy. You may remember the saga of the beds. We were unable to get the wheels which were supposed to be on the two twin beds. We had stopped a few times, but each time there were no wheels. We will try to communicate with the son of the Reil, who speaks good Engllish, and see if we can get them to drop the wheels off at the management company.
We have contracted with a local management company to take care of the villa. They will clean it before and after rentals, as well as pay the various bills. They will look for renters, for which they receive an additional fee, but we will have the villa listed for rent with other agencies as well. One of the Canadian owners has been very successful in renting his unit at a very good rate. We hope to at least pay our mortgage and condo fees, and keep the unit ready for our use next Winter (Fall?).
Part of our last minute work was trying to get an inventory list done for the manager. We also planned to get some helpful instructions and suggestions put up for renters. We didn’t complete those items, but can email them to Charla, the manager.
While in Panama we used two cell phones. We learned that when we returned this time, our old cell phone number no longer worked. One has to put in some time each month to keep the number active. To accomplish this and to provide some help for renters, we left the phones for the renters’ use. Panama is a country of 3 million people, and has 2.6 million cell phones. Many people do not have land lines. We will probably get one when it becomes available in Gorgona, as it is a way to get good internet service.
This is the end of my 07-08 Panama journal. I hope all who have read it have enjoyed it as much as I have enjoyed recording my thoughts. If you travel somewhere or launch an adventure, I would appreciate it if you would share it with me.
We will be back in Panama next Fall. Perhaps you will visit us.
End of Dispatch 29, final Panama 07-08 dispatch
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